Search results

Gray is running a ph1 shaft tho I would have thought Ben, where as someone mentioned the other day has a boot that fits over the top... not a sealed unit. Unsure if ph1 shafts are able to be used on ph2

Bumper bracket iirc

Different dude, I have one that's done a few thousand if u want

Piece of piss mate don't worry about it

it shouldnt, I have heard of them causing problems tho so don't rule it out that easy. Easiest way to check is with a code reader. They can be swapped around if you wanted to get back on the road for now

Have you checked the plugs yet... start with the free stuff!

ebay have a decent price on them dude. But any motorfactors can get them no probs. Upstream is before

Very nice mate, looks well

All the real super 1600s look like that.... rally cars. Also real ones run 240+ bhp. Dont think I remember one ever being owned within the club

check the sparks are tight

Ive been told the STOP light works internally in the clocks so the engine management or electrical warning light wires if anyone knows them with the abs

Can someone tell me if they know which colour wires going to the back of the clocks are the ABS light and the STOP light Cheers

Re: First Project Car - complete I was expecting the vee :rasp:

Oh aye I remember you telling me that already, gettin rid of the pas then with that setup? Tax stays the same as the 1.2 :approve:

Good job dude, welcome to the cheap tax club :rasp: What way you gonna run the alternator then?

demon tweeks I guess

Capital seating can hook you up mate

Must be a fooking fortune in tape. I know the USDM guys use the tape on their splitter and that to stop chips, I presume this is the next step? Raging if it didnt come off well :)

For the electrically minded, could anyone tell me how to light up one of the lights on the dash for a few seconds and then go out again on the turn of the key??

Had the MOT there and the guy gave it a serious going over, I was there for an hour. CV joint fix was fine now i'll just keep an eye on it over the next few days /weeks to see how it holds. Ironically the car failed on the ABS warning light not lighting up on ignition as the only fault

What's the difference hutchie?

Yeah thought about that too, figured there wasnt enough room between the shaft and the block unless it was a completely flat cone style boot

Yeah Ben the problem seems to come that when its lowered the boot is stretched beyond what it can take. Thought about removing the clip that holds the smallest end of the boot to the shaft and moving it closer to the gearbox end, might solve the issue?!?

This would be my 3rd, definately trying this first! Next stop is a brand new one if this doesnt work so no loss

In a last ditch attempt i'm trying something out there and random as a fix for spit inner CVs. Using a large bicycle tube repair patch (the soft stretchy rubber) and cutting it into a bananna shape I am able to cover a significant area of the small split. Im going to glue it on as per usual...

Im telling you that some full systems come with specific fittings i.e just a sleeve. The OE cats have flanges on both sides, others need a flange welded on. Does your centre section have a flange or a sleeve?

Suppost you could whip the disc off and see what the craic is from the other side to be sure if they are working out all the same height and the same for the opposite side its prob cut time. Might be for a clio with drums perhaps?

Chop off time or get a flange added on. Some insert into each other, some use a C-clamp and the rest use flanges

All the back ones seem to stop at the same length?

If you get a really good edge could they not be cut down a bit?