Search results

looks like a pretty standard automotive relay. my guess would have a look to see where it might of come from

yeah i would disconnect the tweeters in the dash if they are not working i'd guess in phase stikes again

how have you got them connected?

or this one for extra capacity

it comes with sense 3.6 this is the one i was going to use

i've got the normal sensation running xe software - beats and it's not bad was thinking of changing to run ICS but not sure how stable the leak it at the mo

well it was about time sky caught up with a half decent on-demand service.

vibe and decent is ihmo a no no as you say it sounds better sealed because ported all vibe subs i've heard have been very muddy

you can't design it to be both the box dimensions will be different for a ported and sealed. but glue if you really must

the size will be bigger for a ported box so sticking the sub in the right sized sealled box would make it sound even better

buy a sealed box. the box should be designed to be either ported or sealed. so them saying you can just seal up the ports is not really right

they are cheap because they are cheap. the osrams are not even double the price but will last twice as long and be twice as good

colour might be ok but i very much doubt they are any good

osram nightbreaker + the blue painted crap is going to be crap

yeah 60w lamps don't get hot at all do they. what you need to relise is the fusing current of the fuse. i suspect a 15A fuse wont open till about 25A

well iso is pretty much standard so get one of these (if it's the right end) and connect the two sets of bare ends together in the right order and then it should just plug into the car

i'm sure there are digital media players that will show a harddrive plugged into them on the network on mine(asus oplay) i can copy from the network to a plugged in harddrive via the unit itself

just get the iso connector (can't remember which gender) to bare ends of ebay and connect it to the lead you have so then you can just plug it in

the only thing i will say is you might want to check the space for the psu i have a HTPC in a silverstone case and although the case takes a atx psu, atx only covers the width and height and the first psu i ordered was too deep fouled on the blu-ray drive

don't bother with a fuse just use a nail instead the 15A they stuck in when it was made was just lying around so that's probably why it was used:rolleyes:

probably mate been on here a while lol yeah that one amp is more than enough to power both subs

the fuse on the power cable is there to protect the cable itself. so should be sized accordingly

i'm not sure how good a picture you would get through the composite video out but the rest is easy

can't see why not but you'd have to get a screen that would be useable which might cause a problem

yeah basically a low power pc with a hdmi output running of a SD card can't really ask for much more for the price

this should be more than enough. you would need to wire each sub so the voice coils are in series then put each sub on the output of the amp so it shows the amp 4 ohms

not really you should always have a higher output amp than the thermal power of the speaker/sub

i snapped both the drive shafts in my 1.6 clio lol

for a start the link doesn't work to me it sounds like you was asking too much from your amp and you was lucky it didn't fry your subs before it died. get the link up of your subs and it should be easy to recommend you an amp

i wouldn't worry too much about the one for your power cable (as long as it is sized right for the cable) but don't put anything bigger than 15A in your amp