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Turning circle will be improved and will look more aggressive. But I'd go closer to 20-25mm. I put 15mm on mine and it only barely worked on the rear. The front still looked stupidly tucked way in to the arches. 25ml gets you flush with the arches
If you're just replacing the seats there's no need to alter the wiring. Just disconnect. If you're ditching the seat permanently I'm sure there's a common resistor trick that will work just like if you replace the stock steering wheel.
You can buy them from proffesional breakers but it's always best to collect in person to avoid dents in transit. With most clios you need to find the skin and have it cut along the sill. The images below should give you an idea but it's not in anyway a diy job.
You'll want the part in the...
Slightly confused. Are you measuring the hole in the centre of the wheel or the hub? The wheel centre bore is definitely 60.1mm.
If you're looking for something to cover the hub nut and thread I'm sure eBay breakers will post you one for a pittance.
Tyres are fine as long as they're not worn out or you've been warned about them. They are perishables after all. Brake pads are the same. But I'm not sure about the regulations regarding insurance companies looking into service records
Like above, another set of hands will help a long way, but not impossible without. Gearbox supports (or extra jack stands) are also worth investment. It's worth doing the clutch while you're there
You told us you don't have a a dremel tool or a blowtorch. And forgive me if I'm wrong but it looks like you've just drilled and grinders the hell out of it. The first method I suggested sometimes fails. The second rarely fails. From your last pic, I'd assume you're close to needing a new hub...
Yeah, basically plastidip. Not a permanent option. Matte finish. Easily damaged. Discolours quickly. I use this stuff to cover exposed bolt thread. Wouldn't say it's good for much else
For all the time taken on this simple task, myself or anyone on this thread could have made it to your car and had it off in time for the kettle to boil.
For future reference these are the methods you should be trying in order:
1. Wd40, heat and impact gun (borrow if you have to)
2. Cut a line...
Recently got a dash cam that needs a 12v connection. Sadly my cigarette lighter has seen a lot of use and is rusted beyond use. What's even more annoying is that the brand new replacement I got, doesn't make a decent connection.
Does anyone know where to get a 12v plug that will easily replace...
Invest in tools. £40 dremel and £20 blow torch will cost nothing compared to an hour of labour these days. Plus the mechanic will probably over tighten the new screws and you're stuck with the same problem.
Get a dremel and cut a line across the screw head. Then get a blowtorch on the bolt and use wd40 on it. Repeat this several times quickly and then use a flat head bit to remove the screw.
When refitting the screws they only need to stop the disc moving. They don't need to be tightened up too much.
Keeping cars completely stock, never driving them, uploading pics every time you wash them, and then selling for £100 over the bought price.
And then the prick uploads a before&after picture as if he's put a single flying f@ck into it.
Two questions:
1 have I lost something here? Or do I need an adapter?
2 am I right in thinking this the steer column control connection. Only ask because there is no link for it on the adapting loom.
Not too fussed about the radio function(was going to remove antenna). I'd like the steering...
Just going to throw a spanner in the works here...
There's no point in modifying your car if you want other people's suggestions. For every mod there's an argument against it. and that arguments probably based on such statements as "it's gay", "just buy a better car" or (the real reason) "That...
Removing a pair of 172 door sill strips but I don't know what's holding them down. They seem to be stuck at two points but I can't pull them off without bending them. Any advice?