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60mm is nothing. I've seen 1.2 owners trying to get cheap coilies because they've still got arch gap. Upgrading the shocks is worth it but if you buy proper springs the extra passengers won't make it scrape.

25mm for standard et 30mm won't poke out but will spray ground water all over the side of your car

1.6 ftw. The extra 0.4 litres gives more pull on demand but barely any impact on insurance,tax and can be driven conservatively for 35-40mpg. Decent choice for a daily or just a cheap project

Light anthracite looks the cleanest. Unless you want the original brown brake dust look.

And underneath the car, I'm guessing, the threads come out behind the fuel tank?

Has anyone actually removed the rear bench bolts without ruining them? I've only ever got the front bolt loose and the rear always sheared off. I realise I only need the rear bolt off but I'd like to actually refit some seats

Any help?

Basically, I'm taking out a 172 ph1 engine tonight and just need to check I'm not going to drop this on my foot. Where's the best places to fit the harness? I've got 5 seat belts and 3 towing hooks to boot.

You need to machine the wheels or get spacer/adapters. Spigots that decrease your centrebore don't exist.

And I need the subframe to sell. Couldn't get a cutter in at the right angle

It was spinning and the top nut was rounded. And the rear end is undrivable anyways

Ha yes! Definitely breaking it. The top was rounded on one side and the metal/cheese clip holding it was wrapped around it.

Never mind

H&r and eibach are the big ones. Other than those, just make sure they're vouched for by a legit distributor

I'd stick to reputable names. Unless they've got a warranty and written declaration of materials used, AVOID. Extra £30-40 is nothing compared to bad spacers going wrong

Just a quicky. The rear 18mm subframe bolts are spinning on my mk2 ph1. Can't get enough room for a spanner on the top nut. Any advice that doesn't involve wd40 or impact gun? I'm about to grind off the bolt heads. Just want to get some alternative ideas

Currently I am breaking a phase 1 172 and considering swapping the hubs & struts over to my non sport phase 2. I'm just wondering if the struts and hubs are a straight swap. I didn't want to swap the driveshafts because of the abs ring compatibility issues.

But the bottom is a pain in the ass. Lots of bolts hidden by sound proofing and wires. Especially around the steering column.

Phase 2 gear knobs are held on by knurled section of the stick. Not sure if glue is used. Mine was held on by a game cover of Fifa 11.

I've seen some really horrific cats in my time. I'd argue the cut n drill option might be easier. Mostly because I want to see if it works

Couldn't see a measurement for the bolts. But regardless, buy cheap-buy twice. Even with using copper grease to stop the wheel sticking I wouldn't trust a cheap brand. The extra £30 for h&r spacers is worth it

It's hard to make mistakes with the sport skirts as there is grooves on the wings and the ottom edge should line up with the jack sill.

Drill them out from the centre. The head will come off with the drill bit but the rest will be lost on the other side so make sure you test fit.

There's no way you'd need extensions that big. If you could find spacers that big, you'd f*ck up the turning circle.

The body work shouldn't rust. You can put copper grease on the rivets before fitting them for peace of mind. But the holes are so small that if there was rust it would be insignificant. But a thin line of sealant on the top contact point of the skirt will suffice.

Basically the skirt is held on at the top by slotting the top lip of the skirt over a series of brackets (will get pics in a sec).use pop rivets to secure these brackets. Anyways, these brackets do the job of lining up the skirt. You may have to use some blutac to test mount it. The skirt is...

Front and rear don't need to match but two pairs of 25mm spacers will cost close to £200 for a decent manufacturer.

All the same. M12x1.5

Phase 1s look meaner.