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Good stuff mate, hopefully see you there! Glad someone got it! Well spotted mate and 10 points for you sir. :approve:

Ah, I see! Looks track focused so should be one to watch round there.

You bean on track at Knockhill with this? Don't remember seeing it on yet. The more boosted Clio's, the better IMO!

Well, if anything you've asked the question and went into it with your eyes open. Should be fine then if they've done it that way for 10 years. My return was going into the block just above the sump so had to sit at more of an angle than yours but I didn't want to take the chance.

I presume you have as you got a quote from him and its not ED. lol

Defo up for a summer crail day Morgan! Would be a good day with all the clios on tour. Lol Looking back, I have to laugh at myself though. It was always freezing but when I wanted to shave another 10th of a second of my time, I'd kick the mrs out and she hated it. Still casts it up 10 years on. :p

No, the 90deg on the drain wasn't ideal but after speaking to turbo dynamics about it they felt with the ID of the AN10 fitting it would be fine and would be better than the CHRA sitting at an angle. I've seen many examples of turbos sitting slight off the plumb and causing all sort of smoking...

Same as me but I had to do some head scratching to overcome it to keep it level. This is my drain and actuator rod:

Really doesn't look it but as your actuator rod looks to be where the vertical point is for the oil feed. You will have problems with it if it is but if you think it's ok then ok.

It's hard to tell from the pics but is your CHRA on your turbo rotated over 15deg off the vertical? I had this on mine and had to change the oil drain run to the sump to make sure it was vertical. Also the heat from the down pipe will melt your oil return as it must only be 10mm or less away...

turbo types are roller bearing and journal bearing so the RS is a roller. It's the same turbo I have and with supporting mods has been proven to 340bhp! Scoff does mapping for both your options and mapped mine and many others too. Both your options I'm sure would be good for you. Is the ED...

Is that what a 200 does? My best in the cup at crail was 14.7 when it was standard (well, I had an extra 30hp from a PiperX Viper and Ktec stealth) but fair play to you guys anything less. Miss crail actually, will take the turbo when its running hopefully this year in the summer to see what...

Cheers mate, I was and talked the other guy through how to make the orange one and where to buy the tie rods from.

Another one! Fair play, you obviously like them and I can't blame you. Had mine for 12 years.

Correct Tom, I made this one. Made from HDPE with stainless tie rods.

Fair play mate, look forward to this project!

I know, the 50 profile is a b1tch!

As I said on TS, they will rub. 15's are required for track work with lowered suspension.

Who said anything about comparing data on another car? It's good to show your lines plotted round the circuit so you can see which lines gives the fastest lap times!

Good luck building the rear caliper back up and getting the ratchet working again.

A Vbox will give you far more data than a lap timer and it works without a beacon. You would love the data a vbox spits out Morgan and would probably pleasure yourself watching the lines you took through certain corners! Lol

PM'd

Very sad news. Waste of a life and a career in a moment of madness. Thoughts go to the family! No deffence for Wrathal but can't understand why cyclists still cycle on the road not wearing a helmet.:nono...

From memory ( and it's been a while) that's where I have mine.

Your timing is out and that's why it won't go in the slots. The white marks just show that after 2 revolutions they should line up again. By the sounds of your questions I guess you don't know how to change a cambelt on an F4R!

Cambelt is every 72k or 5 years, aux belt every 36k or 3 years and dephaser as and when required or when doing the belts for added piece of mind. SWR are in Stirling and have a good reputation.

Just fit these and get it mapped to suit!

Sell it to me. ;)

Probably an hour for the spring and you'd be as well fitting new discs on both sides on the back so an hour for that too.

Seen them move and gouge a chunk out the subframe. Better to weld them IMO.