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Does anyone know if the fuel pipeand wiring part that fits on the top of the carbon canister just push fits on?? Or is there supposed to be a clip or should it screw on??

On that engine you want the temperature to be higher, they struggle to get up to any decent temp, especially this time of year.

As above the discs are the same if they have the abs rings on or not.

Your spare wheel well will be in the way for a starters.

It could be a leaking pipe or a hole in the radiator.

From memory you can easily remove it without getting the subframe off. The 1.2s dont have sump guards, assuming you hit something in the road??

Yes the fabric made piping would be ideal, ideally the same stuff that renault use but a lot wider diameter.

^as above it normally comes out with another light. COuld you have accidently knocked something or diconnected something. Theres the oil level sensor down near the oil filter, than can get damaged easily.

Ive tried quite a few methods, ive found that the type of piping used there which is commonly available gets very hot with the engine.

Renault had changed the original part number 2 or 3 times, the original ones were larger. The newer ones are not so long. Im not sure what the difference is on the 1.4/1.6 filters but the engines are similar on the outside.

I like this idea but surely it would benefit a lot more if the cold air feed pipe was as short as possible?? Where does it route to??

Nope not yet, but someone should do one, id buy one. You can buy a universal one and cable tie it in the square but its not ideal.

As above it will be white or black, you cant miss it really.

Theres a gasket there on a 172mk1, im 99% sure its on the ph2s and 182s aswel..

182 axles are also stronger, if you compare them side to side they have extra strengthening around the shocks and springs. The also have a thicker 24mm roll bar..

Spotted a Flamer with white standard wheels near nottingham, iirc it was near junction 25 of the M1. Anyones??

Theres nothing to worry about, as long as its had its cambelt and aux belt changes.

As above, its a normal W5W

The 1.2 brakes arnt bad, infact the 1.2's have the same front brakes as a valver.

Get someone to rock the wheel left and right and then look underneath with a torch, if theres play at the end its the track rods, if theres play with the whole rack moving its the rack mounts, if its neither of them the rack is buggered somewhere.

Ive got the 23mm outer mounts on my ph1 and they fit like a dream.

You can get away with it sitting there, otherwise find the bracket the strap clips onto, the bracket is a metal piece running down the side of the battery. Make sure the top rad coolant pipe has something to protect it as the airbox can rub on the pipe and split it.

On the 8v you cant miss it, its right in from of the oil filler, on the 16v irc it has individual ones (pencil coils). Its a common problem, they are not too expensive to replace.

Re: cat171 at TRAX in pfc mag :-) Any teaser pics??

Is it 8v or 16v??

Could be above or exhaust mounts are slack causing it to bang on the trailing arm.

As mentioned the rears do not do much, on larger heavier cars they do a lot more. There is not much weight over the back of a Clio. Strong rear brakes could ruin the handling.

It could be a faulty tdc sensor. If the problme is worse while the engine is already warm it could be a faulty coolant temp sensor.

Yes they are all rough on tickover

There is no 2nd tdc sensor, what are the symptoms you are having?