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Just replaced them but there were only 4 I could see not 6. Its a 172 cup loom, is this right? Its been a while since I fit it so couldnt remember how many there were.

Just bought a multimetre, loads of heat shrink and gauge cutters. Have a solder iron but its a bit old, what does everyone recommend? Also crimping tools. Would spend 50 quid max on both. Anything else Ill need?

What sort of tools needed to this cleanly?

It seems temperamental, this time its not woking and have swapped out resistors and opened up the stalk to manually push the metal that activates the horn to no avail. Have mot monday and ideally dont want to move or cancel it. Apart from borrowing a wheel and squib from a friends car, is...

Anyone use a cheap ebay one that does the trick? I dont want any fat mot'ers wearing away the bolsters

Im looking for the buckle that fits the clio belts that can just bolt on the side mounts, the one that is more fixed. Seen a mk3 one but its completely fixed...

Couldnt find much info on which works best, its for a wilwood slave

What stuff do they put on the discs out of the factory? Ive just cleaned up a pair and want to keep them protected until they are sold

What type of sheet metal would you use as a plate for the pedals? 3mm alluminium? Also any ideas how to get the plate flat that wouldnt need welding? Just thinking I could do this all at home without one. Mild steel spacers fastened down with rivnuts?? Or would that not be strong enough

Anyone have any recommendations? One that doesnt give too much height ideally

Before I cut up the column even more is this okay to do? I’m moving the column and need more length on lower uj but instead of using a sleeve or the likes I’ll just use this twingo uj, which i can do so saves more work done elsewhere

Am I right in saying as long as the hose is epdm it doesnt matter its application, it will be fine with brake fluid?

Im really stuck now, I got a extraction tool set, drilled out the bore a bit more but it wont budge, I heated them up but I only have small hand held thing which its still pretty hot but not blazing. I was standing on the caliper and the clamp and it just loosens the clamp..

Doubt these pop up much...

This time from a dealer, 50k+ miles, 'Paint metallic, metallic paint'. More than likely hold on to it for years where it will get mold inside and the belts will need doing...

I take it the first is just displayed more accurate? When you add camber using the strut holes it doesnt effect the scrub radius since its the intercept of the lower joint. But If you were to place the suspension top mount inwards you would effectively being gaining a negative scrub? If it was...

Have a 172 cup setup but the pedals been going soft over time, recently manually bled just the n/s rear and the pedal was nice and firm but has gone soft again, bled both rears and again same thing. I looked and put my finger on every fitting in the car, looked at the lines and theres no obvious...

Just started hearing this creaking noise the other day, ruled out its not the rack or the column, found that the n/s spring was really easy to spin round, theres no play or clunking it just seems really loose, could it be the bearing or something else?

Been reading back on old threads and seemed it was a huge hassle that wasnt worth it. I have a bulkhead pedal box to put in but am looking at a reverse floor mounted one that includes the throttle pedal instead but keeping dbw is costly. Why is it not just the ph1 engine loom, ecu, key/barrel...

My rear toe is 0.37 n/s and 0.20, camber is pretty good at 1.51 n/s and 1.47. I take it 10 minutes is 12.5 deg so nearest to 20 would be 0.245, if I went 20 mins it would be 0.12, I take it its best to go for 10 mins? I would get both sides closer to 0 but Im still sorting things out and without...

Have a few questions as welding or machining are not in my skill set. I currently have a custom rack with a weld on quick release but want to do some custom work to the oem column. My idea is to basically extend what the oem rack is, instead of just having a round bar welded to the where the oem...

Just checking it only needs for fluid to be topped up and turned lock to lock a bunch of times? I just filled the system, it took 0.5L, turned it lock to lock and fluid basically hasnt gone down, It took the fluid very quick. Its too late to start it now but will it be fine? Should I start it...

What type of oil or lube is used on the threads when making them? I cant really find specific stuff

Had some trouble with one of the rears and it wouldnt budge with the impact so ended up cutting the head of the bolt off, subframe now off just realised they are a countersunk type nut. I dont have my laptop with me for dialogys, anyone got a part number or can point me in the right direction...

For those that got their calipers and/or brackets trim'd to size, what sort of price did they charge? Just so I have an idea if they're overcharging or not. I plan on taking in the hub with everything bolted on so it can be done to match the disc size exact

Can anyone recommend somewhere? Also a bit further Surrey way I would travel too.. Tia

Just looking at ways to make things easier and cheaper in the long run. First looked at ap racing dry bleed system but thats worth more than brakes them selves.. As Ill be fitting a pedal box Ive read that it must be manually bled and I dont have multiple people on hand to assist me so this...

People with fairly high spec/tuned track or race 1*2s.. Is it worth it? Im not sure if its that my car needs a proper setup or my expectations of the these clios are too high but I feel every step of upgrading and fine tuning never goes the way I think it will. Currently have strengthened...

When I was fitting a new column I accidentally touched the metal prongs (red and black cable) onto the column with it plugged in and it sparked. I tired a couple of new fuses but nothing.. Is there anything else I can try or will I need a new stalk? Thanks in advance

Just came across these if anyones looking for some.. Not sure on centre bore though https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/Details/95351/15-team-dynamics-wheels https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/Details/95352/15-compomotive-wheels