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Piston In I meant.

If I put the disc back on with some Wood against the piston should be ok? Or another method?

I know this sounds a bit basic... But when I work the caliper in and want to wind it out, can I just pump the brake pedal? Will it only come out to a certain point? Then I can clean everything back up and wind in? And then repeat the process.

Those where the old pads chaps, The new ones I have the tab sitting in the piston each side then the flat pad facing outwards each side. Ok 40Nm for the big bolts, whats the 100Nm figure for? I will take the caliper off and try and wind the piston in soon. Also if I'm winding the piston in...

Can I also ask... the picture above you can see the pad facing away from the car has a locating tab in the middle. That's supposed to slot into the piston isnt it? as that's what I've done on with my new pads.

Cheers Dave, yeah if it comes to that I will have to replace it, I've read that using some force as well as winding in the piston may work? or no? These are the bolts facing that I wish to know the torque setting for please

I replaced my rear brake pads today, I left the large brake carrier on the hub and just hammered out the metal that holds the brake pads in place, and wound the pistons in with a screwdriver whilst the caliper was in place. The passenger side wound in fine, but the drivers side rear didn't seem...

It all ties in very well, last picture looks great :)

I got my ABS reluctor ring off ebay when mine cracked on the 1.2, cost about £6 off ebay, and my mechanic charged me £30 to change it. Make sure you get the correct number of teeth on the ring. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=clio+1.2+abs+ring&_sop=15

If there are cables behind the rear covers, they just plug in. If like my friends campus... there was no rear cabling and I had to cut the loom and add cables to the rear.

Looks good, the number plate says 'nice guy' to me!

2500 grit then 3000 on a meguiars foam sanding block.

I found my Renault touch kit when I had my 1.2 didnt really dry that well, I would leave it for a few days and when wet flatting down it would rub away. I bought a touch up kit from ebay from a paint supplier and it dried hard enough to be flatted down. Same with my Black gold touch up kit, made...

I just commented about whining in neutral and then saw you said it didn't. Mine is the differential bearings in the gearbox. Have you tried rolling down a steep hill in neutral or at speed and seeing if there is any whining then?

Has anyone removed and replaced there window seal without any bother? If I can find an non ruined one I will bother replacing it, if it's a case of needing a window fitter to do it I will wait?

Cheers chaps, he tried to make it better for ages and I thought of the mallet idea but the metal is so soft if I hit the rubber Id dent the metal on the pillar. I think the only way is hope for a new one cheap on ebay, anyone found any links to cheap replacement sets? And Mike when you say...

Sits so nice lowered and spaced. Great project will be keeping an eye on this.

Buy some tyre shine!

I'm going to look like a right ***** now as its hard to see in the pic, half way down is where it was, looks alright now I've done it, this is how it's sitting now which is fine tbh but from the side it's rippled a bit.

Ive never sucsessfully found a local scrappy I can walk into with tools and start dismantling cars, I think i'd have a field day! Anyone know of some in Essex, close to epping/loughton area? Also I think the top and side has metal in, does the bottom? I've done my best and got it pretty...

Oh, I thought you meant weather seal for the window, I mean the smooth seal that goes around the outside of the the window, the door one is easy to get on and off like you say its flexible, this seal has metal in unfortunately.

Yeah all the way around the outside, it had a kink outwards from being pulled away it one spot. Just on the side part next to the pillar. I've gently pulled it away and used pliers to get rid of the kink now now I've just used a bit of silicone and taped it tight around the pillar now. Hoping...

I've just had the dents taken out of my car, there was a dent on the drivers a pillar and to get to it the rubber seal had to be removed, it sat back ok but had a ripple in which annoyed me, and when I tried to fix it later on Ive made it worse to the point I want a new seal. Ive looked on...

I can't comment about fitment because I won't be fitting it until I change my coolant, but this one I've received seems to be of good build quality at first looks, given it a manly knock all over and the plastic looks quite thick. Will compare it with my OEM bottle tomorrow. I know it's just a...

£13.50 car parts 4 less: enter your reg and go to the cooling section: http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/

Yeah the sportlines will lower it a bit, white wheels do look good when clean but its so much effort, If I had a 1.2 again I think Id refurb them in anthracite, the colour the 182 wheels are in, its like a gunmetal grey.

Welcome, looks tidy, plans sounds good, I miss my 1.2! Yours lowered on standard alloys will look nice, I think mine did, white wouldn't be my choice but up to you of course.

I used wire wool or the rough surface from a washing up sponge and white spirit. Took forever but worked, thinners might work too.

Nope, I've spent my money on base products; got a cheap rotary, some decent pads and mezerna polishes etc, I treat myself to the odd new product, I think as much as I'd like to be able to afford the silly priced waxes and such I'm happier to just make do, I could see myself easily spiraling out...

Are the brackets that hold the window regulator to the door not snapped?, theres pictures in my progress thread in my profile link if you want to see.