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Ive noticed a creaking noise coming from the front left wheel when I brake gently in a car park. It's different to the top-mount clunk you get when the suspension unloads, its a bit like pulling your finger nails down a very rough piece of plastic (cant think how else to describe it)
I suspect...
I did this trip last week in a Porsche Cayman S. We got the ferry from Hull to Zebrugger in Belgium, drove down through France to Annecy, then into Geneva for the motor show, then up the Les Deux Alp for three days of snowboarding. All good stuff but we were caught out by the price of petrol...
Im not sure of the correct leakdown figures, infact Im not sure leakdown rates are engine-specific. I think you look for similar leakdown behaviour in all 4-stroke engines. I could be wrong on this, so check :)
If a compression tester gives good figures then there probably isn't any need to go...
Its primarily leakdown rate you are interested in. It's best to use a gauge but you can tell a lot by listening.
Bring the cylinder you want to check up to tdc. Presurise the cylinder by feeding compressed air in via an adaptor screwed into the spark plug hole; and listen to three things...
Min edoes this sometimes, its a sticky colenoid I think. If you wriggle the boot button while locking the car with the key fob you should feel it clunk and then lock.
I run 35psi front and rear.
If I do a track day I'll run them 35psi cold, do some laps to heat the tyres fully, and drop the pressures to 35psi hot. Job done.
I've bought 4 15" OZ F1 wheels. I've looked at the writing cast into the back of the pokes and I cannot see any reference of wheel offset. I was expecting to see an ET number.
The wheels have "Renault" and "OZ Italy" stamped on the back, and a bunch of other numbers, but apparently no reference...
Some people should be held upside down and drowned in a bucket of their own p*ss. If that was my car, and I did that to it, I'd do a handstand and drown myself in a bucket of my own p*ss. P*ss that I would have spent weeks carefully accumulating, for the purpose of my own ultimate ending.
I've...
I'll buy a Wilwood or AP Racing bias valve from somewhere like Burton Power, then its just your usual copper pipe and fittings which you can get from most decent motor factors.
Thanks Fred, always good to get an encouraging response.
Is it a single brake line running to the back?
If its two lines, can I common them up before the bias valve, and then split after the valve to feed each rear caliper?
I was figuring on re-directing the rear brake line inside the car...
I'm thinking about fitting a manual bias valve to my 172 Cup, in a bid to get the rear brakes working a bit more. They seem to do absolutely sod all at the moment, and Im sick of fitting new discs because the old ones have gone rusty (4 sets in 2 and a half years)
Am I playing with fire if I...
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=M/R1856014RB5/H
Are these any good?
Im looking for trackday tyres for my 172 Cup
I had a similar problem with mine, engine would crank, fuel pump was working etc etc but refused to fire up.
In the end I held the computer button in on the end of the right-hand stalk while I turned the ignition on, this sent the dash into diagnostic mode. The engine started fine. F*cked if I...
Is there a guide on how to fit matched inlets? Im thinking about buying a set from k-tec for my 172 Cup, just a bit worried about disturbing the injectors incase I manage to break something.
Any advice?
Cheers,
Kev
I started my 172 Cup this morning and the SERVICE and Airbag warning lights stayed on.
A mile down the road they went out, and have been coming and and going off intermittently all day. They are either both on, or both off.
I suspect a loose connection somewhere in the airbag systems but...