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hahaha you r****d. thats seperate. you have hydraulic lines running to the back to operate the Brake cylinders on the drums. I strongly suggest you don't give technical advice when you clearly don't know what your talking about.
the 1.2 16v engine is bad enough faultwise anyway. I had no problems for a while. i did it once and it went into limp mode for aaaaaages. bucket of water, a cloth and some engine and machine cleaner. and to finish viynl and rubber care is more than adequate.
yeh but you need a good old wiggle with the bar to detect up and down movement.
there are rubber gaitors to protect the ball from getting dirt/crap in them, check everything is tight first, top mounts.. etc etc...
if you move the wheel side to side quickly they sometimes knock and sometimes when you set off, only way of telling if its them for sure is getting a pry bar in and having a wiggle have the small rubber gaitors been split?..
they told me before signing up. only 30 pounds cancellation fee at any time although your first payment is a lot more as a sort of security deposit. Theyre pretty good to be honest.
Got an accident damaged 172 coming today, i need to test the engine before removing it for sale, but it comes without any keys as salvage often does, im just wondering how i can fire the engine up can i bypass the immobiliser and put a spare barrel i have on which has a key
thanks
josh
Sounds like it could be the shaft, thats what mine did when the cv gaitor had gone (as it prematurely wears the shaft) If you need a shaft PM me ive got them coming into stock on friday.
thanks
josh
mine used to be 25% in my replica, some people would call it 75%, it allows 25% of light in, some tinters refer to the amount of tint, others to the amount of light it lets in.
Oh and the last picture is the only one i had of the rear lol
:::Edit::: Very illegal btw