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martins 1.2 16v had done 130k iirc... before it gave up the ghost.

none of them. stick with standard wheels.

well technically yes you can then.... more pressure = more fuel through same size hole as it were..

yeh lowered on 172 wheels or turinis...

maybe he makes himself throw up before going out for a drive..

ah right, i assumed it would be easier leaving the box in place. any info i could have? is there a guide at all? do i need a ph1 engine? surely the engine itself is exactly the same? just the ancillaries that the wiring is different? cheers josh

yeh take it out and swap everything over, just change the engine itself and swap the ancillaries, planning on leaving the box in place...

Thinking about buying a ph1 172 as something to do, needs a replacement engine, Can i fit a ph2 engine? will everything just swap over, do i just need to fit the original throttle body? what order do i take things out in? am i best taking the box off and then lifting the engine then the gearbox...

yeh megane sport i think....

should have let her go at about 65k... after that mileage makes the value drop rapidly... if its a minter and a good advert and you have plenty of receipts etc you should fetch 4.5k for it..

i made a 172 replica..... cost me a fortune, i regret it really, a lot of money wasted. sold it a while ago... for 5k, was a 1.4 16v

best bet is a retrim (can be expensive) or get a used one off ebay. if its still under warranty some people have had success getting them replaced under warranty.

which part do you mean? the panel in front of the undertray (if you have one) that goes between the bumper and the subframe and is held to the subframe by two 10mm bolts?

the ball socket does clip in... just seems like it needs a lot of force... usually looking like the white ball part is going to snap. I find it helps to take the rubber bit off the back and pull the inner unit so the locating socket is more accessible.

mainly because they don't use cables to change gear its a metal rod instead, and the engine mounts in clios are very soft... wouldn't worry about it...

19

i think 4k no offers

you can run a non RS subframe which can be picked up for peanuts... you need to drill a hole for the 3rd mount... theyre also not quite as beefed up but in the real world you will notice no difference... arm itself is probs bent a bit, thats about 45 quid from renault with the ball joint...

isn't taking parts out of the structure going to make it mega mega weak? im talking about the pics on pg1 btw.

spoiler is a joke imo... bonnet is not my bag... other than that looks a tidy motor...

thats why i would never use a garage.. especially beause they also use them for locking nuts grrrrrr

possibly a sticking caliper.... how many miles has the car done? does one wheel feel warmer when you have finished driving?

yes.. its not the engine.. its illegal to knowingly falsify the mileage...

lowering looks better... but anthracite badges don't go with the uncolour coded side strips and the bra looks pants becuase the car hasn't got anything else euro on it.. suits cars like Russ's and Duttys because they are euro look...

seem to remember 59 in second.... thats what my 1.4 did as well back in the day...

should be able to get a late low mileage minter (ph2 172 ff) for that much...

depends wether its the ballast, starter or bulb. I think ive got a starter kicking about if you need one..

lose the stickers... specifically the Yozzasport ones imo...

i don't think you will notice a great deal of difference. If its feeling a little sloppy maybe change the dogbone mount... or if you don't mind a bit of vibration through the cabin stick some KTR bushes into the dogbone..... (powerflex iirc)