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Yeah the plastic things for alignment, makes it ten times easier to be honest, but you'll get "Real mechanics don't use one" on here.
The round thing will be the release bearing
Grinding noise is your brake pads are metal to metal mate, get it jacked up and have a look at them, inners and outers.
It'll fail an MOT aswell if they are.
Connections on the actual horn are poor, then just pick up all the crap that comes through the grill and that (its low down)
Depending what model it is, you can get your arm down behind the light cluster and clean the connections.
Have you replaced injectors or the diesel filter?
If its the diesel filter, undo the bleed screw, then pump the primer (round black oval shaped thing) until diesel comes out.
If your trying to get fuel from the rail to the injectors, crack off, and undo SLIGHTLY the pipes at the injector...
I've done one or two on the side like that GR7, there not much fun without a 2 poster, using a trolley jack for everything. Your arms look like you've been wrestling a grizzly afterwards.
Red 03 Plate, TZR. Fully Loaded lol. Rugby tonight down the Leicester road. In two minds about that red light lol
In the black dci behind you. Seen you around loads was heading towards Gibbet Island one night behind you aswell, remember following you overtake a fair few cars
14mm long socket, 8" 3/8 extension and a magnet :rasp:
Can be tricky though, I've snapped one before (Faulty plug, absoloutely shat myself though I'd cross threaded it) hammered a T-50 into the coil and undone it.
Those long port things are pretty good though, no dirt can ever get down there
The amount of people on here that think its a really hard/complicated job, its just tight. Its nothing if you know what your doing.
If hes got the locking kit tools/a bit of sense it'll be fine.
Personally I'd take it to a specialist, or if your minted, a dealer lol
Lmao at the comparison...
Mikey to find out which coil(s) is down manually, remove the engine cover, remove the 4 bolts holding the coils in, but leave the coils there. Start it up, and in turn, lift each coil, if you can remove it all the way without it making any difference to the engine - thats the duff one.
You...
I'd get the genuine kit to be honest, not worth it in the long run even if it is a bit cheaper. Cambelts not something you want to take chances with really.
Local dealer goes makes wooshing noises, in conjunction with your bank balance going into the red
Yeah theres a lot of sense behind that seeming as thought they're only quids each. Has he pressure tested the head do you know?
£600 is a little high, book times 10/11 hours. If you trust the mechanic though...
More than likely its the connection on the back of the actual rev counter mate if thats what you mean?
Does it just go to the 0 mark and do nothing? Try hitting/tapping it
Thats why you shouldn't rush into buying cars off eBay, your bidding to buy, if your unsure, go look at it, then go home again and bid, isn't that the one described as having Xenons aswell
Amazing what difference a £5 set of Number plates can make.
Not worth doing mate, flog the 1.2. Your doing alright if you can pick up a 1.9 with less than 100k on, thought they never die (just when your mates joke your car sounds like a tractor, they're not joking)
Keep doing oil & filter changes you won't go far wrong.
I've never known of xenon problems from the UCH. Take the ballast pack off the back, clean up all the connections, if necessary leave them on a radiator overnight, (done this many times with Lag2's) re-seal them with silicone and get them back on. Technically, they've got they're own computer...