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Sorry to bang on about this but I'm trying to get to the bottom of a running problem so have done a compression test.
When started from cold it does the normal raised idle but as it drops it begins to sound rough and the idle struggles and will sometimes die while sounding like a tractor (miss...
I thought this might be the reason for my dropping and eventually stalling idle that I've still not solved, am I right in saying an air leak is more likely to raise the idle
Preset then longhold 6 to enter and scrolling through stalk and longhold the bottom button, very strange as I've never had a problem on all my other 1*2s
Right so having sorted a bad earth causing the immobiliser to not allow my 172 to start I've now got a new issue which is a low unstable idle which is close cutting out.
On closer inspection I can hear the coil making irregular clicks like an arching sound, is this likely the problem?
Loosing...
Found it! The earth on the back of the gearbox was barely making contact, the connector was snapped.
I know I need an 8mm connector but does it matter what I use as long as it makes good contact as I can't find a similar one online
Yes I agree with you both, I do have a dodgy earth strap from behind headlight to top of gearbox, the bolt has stripped the thread in the g.box by a previous owner. But it's testing for continuity.
Hmm possibly but it was fine until the starter jammed, I also tried putting a jump lead from battery negative to the top engine mount but still nothing. Not sure if it's relevant but my obdII reader will also not connect now
I've taken my starter off as it was only throwing out the dog gear , not spinning up. Turned out the live feed was corroded to the motor so sorted and bench tested.
Anyway now I've got it all back on, the immobiliser light wont go out so the engine won't turnover unless I turn the key...
Put a new battery in to try and sort a starting issue, didn't work.
Anyway I now need a radio code for this serial number- RN278F20286512 if anyone could help, cheers
I've been replacing the missing brackets to fit a standard ph2 airbox but something isn't right. I've bolted the front and rear brackets in the correct location but the tab under the battery that it locates onto sits too far forward.
Baffled as to how or why so I'm tempted to just do away with...
That makes my £1400 flamer not such a bad deal, it does look a bit like the Rover from that Father Ted episode after Ted's done a bit of PDR on it though
Different people get their kicks in different ways, smoking, drinking, gambling or all three at once, none of these result in and real gain in the long run and are ultimately less rewarding than rebuilding a car at great cost.
Do it!
I've just used that place to replace a few missing clips on my car. The only thing I'd say about the arch lining clips is that they are far harder, less rubberized plastic than the oe ones so not sure they will be so easy to fit/remove