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hmmm, wierd then. Presumably both drivers are looking for new shells?

Has anyone used etcher/primer prior to painting with VHT? or just clean up and paint direct?

you don't need to do the bottom end mate unless you want to do a high boost conversiono. You'll obviously need ECU, all the pipework and intercooler etc though.

+1. You'd think in this economy that they would be bending over backward to sell houses. Especially considering the renting market has no overtaken the buying market.

didn't think you could reprogramme the UCH to do that Mick? Thought the "programming" options were very limited.

little worrying that he's not put a picture up of the engine. I'm sure this was up for sale not long back. Would be a cheap engine/GB though, with a 182 shell to recoup the money. If I had a garage I might start my own breakers yard :D

This to be honest. The flags aren't there just to look colourful :mad: Not sure what he did though, looked a bit strange. He didn't look like he too too much grass. Great report lads :approve: I love watching racing at donnington. It sucks that WSR isn't there anymore as Craner always makes...

^^^^ Good effort Tony :approve:

Reg should be enough. Can't remember if the code is in the fobs on the ph1.

not really mate because you'll have an ecu which won't recognise any key. Plus the UCH CAN'T be re-coded. I know a guy who can get codes, but you'd need someone to code the key for you. If you were a little closer i'd have sorted you out ;) Saying all that, if it's a ph1 ecu, you can have an...

Yeah mate. Fob doesn't have to come from Renault, but you will guarantee it's a good one. All that's needed is to code that to the matching ecu/uch set. The only issue you might have is getting hold of the immobilizer code from the dealer as you need the v5 which I presume you won't have. There...

No worries matey :)

Cheaper and easier to get a blank key and get it coded mate. Keep the blades for the locks obviously ;)

Good progress Jon. Only problem you may find is that the wheel nuts aren't from that car :( not sure if there is anything other way to find the correct key for them.

nice pics Adam. Wish I could have been there. Long story ;)

Weld another nut to the locking nut. May work. Otherwise try and drill them out. Good luck :( Nice work by the way :) have you got a spare block?

Nice one guys. Great result. Dan I can appreciate the distraction. That fez is lovely :approve:

Love it. All the effort to make a 5 door Clio and then strip it out ;)

Where are you mate? Decent code reader may shed some light

Good luck today guys. Can't make it now, but I'll defo make one meet this season

Looking good mate. Colour scheme?

not the best. Depends what they are going to be used for. If they are for track it's probably acceptable to buy them ;)

Cheers Tony. Clever bit of kit!!

Christ I'm right for a change :)

Which is adjustable via the pedals? Sorry having a dense night :)

sounds a little high. Thought it was 105Nm. Could be wrong though. Personally, just make the three normal bolts nice and tight and you'll be fine. Never had issues with overtightening them. (touch wood :)) I know Mike had issues on track with his coming loose even though torqued up correctly...

oh well. Got to support the traders afterall ;) That's gone down a bit though surely. I'm sure i've read they were around £50ish from dealers.

what's the significance of the raining?

does sounds like the key is fubard. Why would you spray WD into the circuit board part :S

Speaking from someone who paid £900 for his (was a while ago :(), even at that price they're not worth it. Don't get me wrong, they are very nice seats, and they hold well, but I use my car on track, and they lack a bit of side support imo. You could get a decent set of bucket seats much...