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Without camber bolts, you can't adjust, so it should give near on standard camber. Unless the dampers are slotted obviously- if so, just match up left and right as close as possible.As soon as you fit camber bolts it gives you the adjustment option.

I removed the box on this one, couldn't see anything untoward. If memory serves me, Kris fitted it back in himself...

Nope, front shocks aren't sided.

Rustbucket did me proud today! Some other cracking metal about too.

Vibration/knocking at high revs and when backing off was almost certainly the manifold on the subframe if it's been sorted by moving the engine forward. Crank sensor imo is black or white. It either works or it doesn't.

You can also loosen the 4x 13mm bolts that hold the upper gearbox mount to the body and adjust from there. They all have a certain amount of adjustment.

Nothing with a Blue oval on the front does anything for me, however this does look like a tidy example.

Either take the pump out and syphon from there, or remove the feed line from the fuel rail and turn the key to prime the pump and pressurise the system.

41 seconds i'll never get back. Thanks.

Various wires down there in that area. Lambda. Gearbox earth. Speedo sensor. Reverse sensor. Get a pic of the plug up and i'll tell you what it is. (I'm midway through a 'box change atm)

As said, tanks are made of plastic. You'd have to be incredibly unlucky to make it go bang by putting a hole in it. Find someone breaking a car- the tanks usually end up in the bin because they don't sell.

Two plugs/connections that always gets me raging is the starter motor spade connection and the gearbox reverse sensor plug. I've always got cold hands by this point- on several occasions i've talked about torching other people's cars over these two little f*****s.

My bet is engine mounts need changing/adjusting. Could well be the manifold hitting the subframe.

Ring James himself. I'm sure he'll be happy to help you out.

Re: let us see pictures off your old cars you owned I MUST own a CSL at some point.

Meh. Walk past three of these every day. (;

On a 182 it goes (from front to back of car) engine - manifold - cat/decat- centre section- backbox. The centre section and backbox might as well be one section though.

Yep, that car left work late last week.

I fed some ducks at a meet once after a day on the beer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvMGf1u2mOU

Search for Guppy's 182. Best one. RIP and soz.

Did you see what happened when he fitted rear brakes, FFS?

Put one on, count the number of rotations the bolt goes round before it's tight. I'd be happy with five full turns.

The joint between the wiper stalk and the linkage is a bit of a weakpoint, although it's odd for both to go at once. My bet is fuse, relay or linkage. I've got linkages kicking about if you need one cheap.

Dehumidifier and hoover the dry mould off. ? Maybe try leaving some rice in a bowl in the car? That attracts water, no?

Lol. That's probably still a £15-20k bill.

I'm still struggling to believe that people buy BMW's that aren't a 2.8 litre engine or bigger. ;)

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Christ, there's some money been thrown at that. Epic spec.

Angelworks are long gone. Still operating i believe but nowhere to be seen on here. Yozzasport is no more. Andrew's in Australia i think and Fred's now running BTM. MiniValver for the K4m? Ben's still about... Track car's in bits somewhere but he still has most of it i think..

Re: 'Sir_Dave's Caged, Cleaned & Toyed-with Shed Trophy Paedo Wagon I was knocking one out and eating spag bol. x Not at the same time, i might add.

There's a hanger for the centre section, yes.