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I cannot recomend them. If you want to replace the ARB etc bushes replace with the standard ones there btter. As for the engine mount well loads of people replace the dbogbone one with the more resistant one but it only loads up the other mounts so they will wear more so its going to shorten...

Yep they will regardless or the light being on. As Middo said Renault can sort of switch the seatbelt off but thats for diagnostics not long term use realy.

Just stick resisters in the system or better still remove the whole loom if your removing all the airbags. This is for the Mk2 Clio owners only. Once you have set an airbag or pretensioner off no other airbags or pretensioners can be set off. The computer is useless the light will stay on on...

Servicing (UK only) 172/182 Normal servicing is done ever 12k or 2 yrs there is a 1 month/1k tolerance so you can have it done up to 25month or 13k before any warranty implications. Beyond this time/warranty period you maybe asked by Renault for a % payment from yourself for warranty work...

Yep dead right same as all Clios.

There a load of f7R engine 730 and 736 are the common 172 ones. The CLio RS is the only one with the high compression ratio and head casting there a few other unique bits to it. SO nope you need more than just uprated compression to get the power the VVT for a start if you rcar doens't have it...

You can plug the Mk2 lights in with zeons into the loom they work phase 1 or 2. The phase 2 conversion was probably done to help sell and the parts are more common. Get it measured up then and take it for a test drive on a big empty space any outstanding damage should show up or get the AA...

Most salespeople don't stay at a place more than a few years for a compnay then they move so they never realy learn the product line.

Most none RS don't have ESP either. The only probelsm with ESP are the fact its more wiring and computers to go wrong its great though if you don't wat it switch it off.

Yep if there to long spacer them and torque them up as per our other thread.

The bolts are to long hummm Yep should be fine so long as you torque it up correctly.

The 172 Cat ins't amazing so it will help with power but its its fine why chnage it IMO. The rear exhast system on clios 172 is a problem due t the weight of the rear back box not being help you can get the exhaust welded up and have an extra brakcet made (if you get a mechanic under the car...

Its your resister pack most lily £80 or so from Renault only takes a few minutes to chgae its on the drivers die almost in the middle under the scuttel panel. But you might have a blocked heather matrix get the engine hot and feel if the pipes (there two one going to the rad one coming from it)...

Stick a cool pack in there is a much better idea. You can tap into the pipes if you wanted

Two hoses (one to the intake manifold and one to the fuel tank) and yep two bolts. Water gets in under there hence why your is wet. If you want take your front wing off see the mud which gets under there.

Unlikly to be the induction kit at all. Sounds like a TDC sensor failure or throttle body being dirty rarther than the coils. You need a garage etc realy to check it to see the problem they'll plug the car in and tell the error code will tell them what to fix etc. But by the sounds it will...

You don't want smoke it means the EGT are to high realy and the turbo getting damaged.

Have you been having to top up the coolent if not then into not that leaking. Most likly it a seal under the scuttle panel leaking or is you've a sunroof that. Cannot hepp with the garage though. GDI are cambridge way but again there a garge who'll chage similar to normal garag prices I know...

Standard cats are silly money £600 or so. Your car might just need a service.

It will make a gain in performacne Brian as the intake manifold arnt that well designed (well they are for manurfacturing and cheapness) so gains are possible 10~15hp on a stock on have been shown before now.

The fuel line plug might have come loose. Take the fuel rale off check the washers are all there and undamaged if you want.

Try shopping round 2modified and motorworld online sites are your best bet. ALso try BRUN on here he wokds at motorworls shops and can get them cheaply I belive.

Thats Stan* on here that compnay PM him and you might gt a better price as he has to pay ebay free on that one http://www.ap-developments.com/

The engine codea re on the engine will be somehting like F4R 730 then some number the F4R or F7P stand for the eend type the last three digits are the code fo r that engine as for examples there a lao dof F4r codes some used on the phase 1 172 some on Laguans some on 182 there all different...

When you say its to long as there to much cable movment? Sound like you might have a Williams one.

Check the alternator wiring but alternators can fail a lot.

Nos on the 1.2's blows both th intake manifold (since there formed plastic ones) ad the piston rings to pieces.

Some from the intake manifold area.

F3p

Don't TBR use TIG welding and homemade silences as well?