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Keys are weak throughout the range

Try cleaning the EGR valve.

Do you mean the imobiliser ring? If you do, check the connections to it.

Its called selective opening of doors, its how it is it cant be changed. Just get into the rythem of double clicking when opening. As for the radio, press the button that changes the bass/treble and theres an option in there to turn it off.

If its the 1.2, it will be the auxillary belt tensioner 100%.

f**k me, id say that was bottom end pal, Id whip the sump off and drop off the big ends for inspection next.

As above. Its meant to be dash out to do it aswell but it can be done without.

Iv got some for sale on ebay atm. Brand new never used. There on £25 at the moment. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220489801654&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

It should start on either. Iv had this fault before on a 197. Make sure the wires arnt broken on the switches. Make sure the brake lights work? Also the rear wiper and the boot opens?

I wouldnt, get it welded imo.

I found this out when doing mine, had the wrong kit so the bottom idler hole was too small. Had to put it back together at that point with the original idler. Just now recently done it all again and replaced the idler.

There isnt a external relay for the windows. Its all done via the UCH.

Could be the diff circlip

21 172

100% the auxbelt has come adrift and gone into the crank pulley, hence the charge warning light. The little things are the rollers which act upon the valves. They usually get wacked off in the event of valve/piston contact.

An electronic unit called the passenger compartent computer. It controlls most electrical things on the car.

Sounds like a possible UCH problem.

You can do it on clip though.

Yes thats the part. Over £100 from renault iirc.

Was the stud broken? Nut that holds it to the gearbox loose? Iv seen two now that have done this.

I strpped one ages ago and iirc its the locking pin inside that fails causing the movable part to rattle.

Idealy you need a new pipe mate. You could bodge it though. The other hole is blanked off and is a return. Only early ph1's have a return.

regulator is on the offside of the fuel rail, it also has the presure sensor right next to it.

It will be most likely a sticky fuel preasure regulator problem.

It works nothing like vtec.

Just get a pick in there and yank the fecker!

Use the shrinkers you get with the kit :)

Pretty simple but not the easiesy engine to do it on. Remove the airbox and it will be on top of the gearbox under a few coolant hoses. Make sure you replace the sensor with the peice of modified loom also.

Nope iv welded them in place before. Just disconect the battery and the ECU plug.

Just bolts up nto one position, theres no adjustment.