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Nice one mate, glad to be of assistance.

Urr, so you dont think its nothing to do with the fuel pump not priming when you get a 12v pulse...

Yes, its the energiser wire for the relay to work.

Go for it ;)

Give it a wack with a hammer. :P Yeah if you have 12v and its not priming, its the pump. Might be worth putting your own 12v to the pump also, see if it runs.

I would imagine then that the injection computer is not being powered or the coded signal from the UCH is not being recieved.

To be quite honist I cant remember how the system works off hand but there will be a fuse and relay but the system incorporates an injection locking relay aswell. But I think this only powers up various sensors. The Fuel pump relay also supplys the ignition coil iirc. Alot of renaults suffer...

Check to see if you get a 12v pulse at the pump. There will be 2 fat wires which are the fuel pump live and earth. If you have, then pump If you have not, theres a wireing fault. One other thing to check is the white connector in the same fuse box. This carrys the feed to the fuel pump so its a...

Do you crank it and then it stops cranking its self? If so lock and unlock the car and try again. Turn the ignition on for 30 secs then off then try again.

No it wont, theres only one hole in the bottle in a cup one.

Sound like the k9k tensioner.

3 wires, and hes said hes already replaced it.

two nuts locked together on the stud. Then do up.

Check the pins in the speedo transducer connector havnt been damaged or pushed out.

Swap the relays around in another order, they are the same relay after all, your not going to damage anything. In most cases it wont but you might find you wont be able to communicate with the injection computer surgesting its not being powered up. The fuel pump is defo priming? Not being...

They do stick, be gentle but firm with a lever.

Theres no point in changing the decoder ring, the imobiliser light will be flashing signalling that no code it being picked up from the key. The TDC sensor if its a-a and b-b is wired right. The imobiliser light defo comes on and goes out? Try swapping the injection locking relay (small brown...

Your going to start the argument again......

You dont crimp them connections. You place the wire in them either side and heat the whole sleeve. The heat will melt that metal piece and bond them together. Also note sometimes the wires swap positions. Just match the pin numbers (a,b) to the new plug.

If you cant free it off with a tap, it will most likely be that the shoe has come away.

Hit the drum with a hammer and away you go. Its the moisture from the ice/snow getting in the drum. It wont just come on wilst driving.

Dropping the mrs off at uni! I travel from exeter every other weekend to visit.

w445 ;) and pressed plates yeah. I love turbines :P

On turbines, saw you in a bus stop.

Yep by the sounds of it its a fault with the steering lock and or connections.

Remember seeing that on piston heads a while back! ^

Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition on?

Dont dilly dally, if the lights on, there will be a stored fault. Get it put on diagnostics.

That picture looks nothing like a UCH. Could be a UCH fault though but the click is normal. Have you actually tried unplugging the alarm as I said?

You will most likely have an air leak somewhere. Remove it and check all the rubber seals.