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Could you post a picture of the type of key you have? Is it a old style square one? Or the newer clio 2 type key? As the car is right on the change.

The cambelt is but the lower idler has a smaller internal diameter.

The central locking and the imobiliser are two different systems. So re syncing the key, fixing the battery etc will not affect the imobiliser. Even if you didn't have a battery in the key, it would still start the car. Keys are very weak on all clio 2's. It will more than likly need a new key...

280 i do them too

Silver ph1 went screeming past me towards Exeter way very loud! Also v6 in bournemouth with lexas lights and personal reg? Any1 on here?

The hole is there from factory.

Get a valeo clutch in there and that will sort your problems.

I will do it, Im in Honiton. Pm if you are intrested.

I get 32mpg on average

Im assuming the imobiliser light stays solid. This symbolises that the Injection ECU has not recieved a coded signal or the wrong coded signal. Turn the ignition on for a minuite then off. Lock and unlock the doors, then start. See if that helps.

Wishing I never changed now! Theres just somthing about keeping it original!

Im am seriously considering getting a ph1 bumper back on my clio. Going from this To this (sorry for nicking pic) Comments?

Could be 1 of two things imo. Condensation from the evaporator in the airbox Or the big rubber drain for the scuttle chamber is partially bolcked.

any mk1 or mk2.

Its inside the inlet manifold.

Its on the 1st page lol

They have plastic screws which snap off for a past time. Looks like its been broken. I normally drill the rest out carfully and fit a metal one from a Renualt 21 savanna.

Yep, tight starter motor. Give it a tap with a hammer and see if it goes. Might be worth checking your engine earth points too.

There wont be any faults with your laptop because you are not speaking to the ABS/ESP ECU. Thats where the fault will be stored.

Do a search on yours. Yours is most likely a wet alarm unit. ^^

Your missing the link in between the two. Like an eyelet looking thing. This is what your meant to unbolt so you dont have to piss around adjusting the linkage. Its held on under the rubber boot on the bottom of the box with a 13mm bolt.

Yup, more of a common problem on the d4f/d7f aswell. Really easy to check. At the front of the engine where the dipstick goes down. Just to the right of that is the starter. Remove the white wire and clean her up as stated above.

Its not un common to have two bulbs go at the same time. It happends more than you'd think.

I dont fit them back either. Id rather not risk it!

Post a picture of what you mean. You cannot see the cambelt at all. The auxilarly belt you can see quite clearly.

I slide it round the back towards the exhaust manifold and it drops out above the driveshaft.

Good write up there. Also iv learnt the way to get the bottom cover out without removing the pulleys and not breaking it. ;)

Re: Missfire on cylinder 3, new plugs, leads, coil and injector is working. Plug is b Was there any moisture/water/brown staining on the HT leads when you did the compressions?

Done mine last saturday due to the "rusty diaphragm" problem. Took me and a colleuge an hour to rip the box out and 3 hours all in to put it back together on a ramp. I didnt think it was a bad job at all danny. Would love to try a syline :P