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Tbf there's not a lot to go wrong with a bit of pipe and flanges. Ask for pictures, if it looks no good and the steel looks cheap then don't bother.

I'd change the rear spacers for ones that go behind the stub axle. With the spacers you have now you will put extra load on the bearings.

I can't get the Yanoo stuff in time to do it. I don't trust my soup stirrer on track anymore, it's a bit sloppy. Hopefully what I've got in mind will keep the noise to a minimum

It's much easier having separate spacers and shims.

Cheers lads! Just ordered a PMS shifter, also having a few ideas of how to remove the rattle before I fit it. See if they work...

Thanks Andy. I need to sort out the diamond on the front, it's been tatty since I got the bonnet.

Lol! They're out rain or shine, or in this case a gale. Yeah the bumper would end up the closest part to the tyres then. Might be possible to push the part where the bumper fits out too.

It was blowing a gale! So up front over a standard phase 1 I've got a cup subframe (+10mm each side), roll centre kit (+5mm each side), ET35 wheels (+8mm each side) and 10mm spacers. So a 66mm wider front track. On the back I've got the ET35 wheels and 7.5mm hub spacers. But after rolling the...

Interior has come back out for Oulton on the 27th, tracking has been set and I've put my spacers back on the front with the studs and nuts. It looks wide :) With the tracking set it drives better than ever, can't wait to get it out on track and see what it can do. Gave it a wash and a polish too.

Not had an issue with Flux, never had to claim mind. But they've always been the cheapest for me and beaten other best prices which other companies, some on here, couldn't beat. My other insurer is Adelaide through the IAM, they're very good on standard cars so my daily is with them.

Could be fixed with a spring around the rod to the chassis perhaps. I think I might get one and then worry about fixing the rattle later.

I'm currently debating getting a PMS shifter before Oulton on the 27th. I need to do something asap as my standard one has seen far better days. Do you get the 'rattle' that's associated with it? If so how annoying is it? My car isn't quiet but then again it's not loud and it would really annoy...

:evil:

Pagid blues are the ones to get really but yellow stuff a worth a try, not too bad on discs and work well with heat in them.

You can get Dwarf, Man and Orc ones too. If you're badass you get Hobbit ones.

I had Mintex, they failed after two track days. Now on Brembos

Jenvey SF 48s will do on a Jenvey MR23 manifold opened out to match the head.

Yes, leave the rears standard

Yes, quite a bit stronger.

2.3 degrees each side, or thereabouts. How much would that be vs off the shelf stuff?

I'd go an extra degree on the OSR and 30 minutes on the NSR; correct the toe too you might need two shims used together one for the toe and one for the camber. You'll be ok with 10mm hub spacers on the back along with the shims and then as Mark said 10mm will be fine on the front too.

I thought you could use the standard gearbox mount? You won't need a custom flywheel. Yes it does

Would the R26 NDO box be any easier?

Cheers Scott. I've got some plans for extra width for when my arch roller turns up ;)

Does anyone know how long the standard rear hub bolts are (1x M8 and 3x M10)?

Love it!

2.5 YB on carbs, bet it sounds incredible! Very jealous

6 paddle > 4 paddle

Your old Clio handled well on them too Mick

The bilstein are great, if you want damping adjustment the sportline 1s would do you. I think mine are great but I'm mot running track spring rates, mine are similar rates to the bilstein but I get extra rear roll stiffness due to the proper rear coilovers rather than separate shocks and inboard...