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thats fairly low, was that hot or cold? you should be getting a minimum of 170psi when hot, and ideally over 180psi

alpha is old, very out dated, and there's barely anyone who can map it. Dealers have to pay an annual licence fee, and there's almost no one that bothers anymore as it's so behind the times. You can't even get the software to access the ECU and allow very basic startup adjustments

;) I'm not that mean

sure I can find one on facebook ;)

Ask Dave88. He's run out of earplugs ;)

and remove the old one first :slap:

LOL at the trolls. Mel would eat every last one of you for breakfast

s**t messy job to do, minimum of an hour really, plus parts. The wrong emphasis is being put on the issue here though, ignore the fact grease makes a mess of your wheel, if the CV joint drys out you will need a new driveshaft very quickly, and that'll cost you £250 for a brand new one

Hi Mel, did you buy moos silver one?

have you tried calling ktec to see if they will sell you the adaptor loom?

cheap chinese shite.

I use the greater angle tighening figure. Never once had one slip using this, even supercharged

they look nice, but the ofset is crap :(

no, it wont ;) honestly, put the money towards other bits. Love RSI's, this is mine

I've got them on the front of mine now, quite like them. They're £46 from camskill at the moment in that size. Did a track day at bedford on a set and they did well, they're not a proper track tyre but they were reasonable enough

Exactly this. Vmaxx are a budget brand, but then that's all they've ever claimed to be. Best of the cheap brands. GAZ claim a hell of a lot more, but really all they are is the very cheapest iteration of lots of features, badly executed

he doesn't like them, it's not that difficult to comprehend. I'm not a fan either really, work fine but I dont like the feel. Cliolord changed from ferodo's to mintex 1155 on my recommendation (he didn't like the ds2500 either) and found them really good at Bedford

rear strut brace?? what rear struts??? RSI's are cool btw ;)

there's plenty of options. If you're going to go for ITBs and standalone, you'll be looking at something like saab 9000 turbo injectors (high impedence) to be capable of delivering the fuel you need for the spec you mentioned in your other thread. If you go with keeping the standard ECU and...

They're Carbs, and it's the fact it's 6 cylinder and a non multivalve engine that makes it sound that way. It is lush.

you cleaned the engine? why? my bet is you have water in the sparkplug wells, seen this on a lot of "detailed" clios. STOP JETWASHING THE ENGINE!!!!!!

turbo is a bit of an arse to change. there's a couple of bits that were very obviously designed to be fitted with the engine out the car, which makes it very frustrating. It is possible though

I've just done an engine with 422s and wossner pistons, and it had 0.5mm skimmed off the head

used quite a lot on 200sx's, normally ones with shafted engine mounts

I keep a lot of spares and the slightest damage means they get changed. if you're doing it as a 1 off, TBH yeah you may aswell do the lot.

plus the VAT on all of those

avoid GAZ. The other 2 are decent in different ways, Vmaxx are quite comfortable for the road and FK are a decent enough entry level track coilover

definitely lambda

well it's non genuine. I've fitted that brand before and they've seemed decent enough. You shouldn't have an issue if you've replaced dampers as a pair. Genuine dampers aren't expensive, and are made by KYB (kayaba)

not suitable for what he's asking for. Good road pads, but an 1155 for ocasional track, or even 1166 if you're feeling hardcore. 1144's will cook on track