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Did you remove the old stuff or just stick on top, I need to do mine, thinking mid grey

Blocked strainer maybe, check to see if sump was layered with sealant when fitted last time, people/s**t mechanics love doing this, my mates "rebuilt" cvh engine done by what he thought was a legend failed because of this in less than 100miles 😂 What's the plan, new engine and map tweak?

Leave standard and use come rain, sun or snow, I'd love a trophy!

Beleive they may be fitted to some push bikes m9x1, I need 2 also

Will be a decent car once finished, ready for years of abuse before next rebuild 😁

All the best, should pass no issues

Just be sure to use the correct grade nuts and washers also, stick to a good known supplier also

Screaming for a 50shot of gas 😂

Got a graph of the power run, 300's loads ha

If it's a standard car and basic insurance just go anywhere, their all the same....robbing cnuts

Other one I tried was autobrite magifoam I think it was, goes on quick thick and has a long dwell time (20mins) but it was also very good at removing heavy grime, just need to stick to the dwell time as it needs it, top quality product though

It's all I use in the winter months on my cars, quick snowfoam and a rinse and that's it, it's good for under arches etc also, really good stuff if you give it a decent dwell time

Best thing to do is see if there is anyone local to you on the forum who could maybe pop round in give you a hand, even better they may have spare parts to aid fault finding and save you some cash

No spark means it's likely a crank sensor issue or maybe the coil

Like I said best to find the drain, power must be getting sucked from the battery through one of the fuses, it takes time but should eventually find it, get battery checked also as it may have a weak cell which will hold enough power to start the car in the short term but not enough power over...

It's simple enough, R, 1, 3 and 5th are back, obviously others are forward, left and right positions are the same as in the car, use 5th to set the gear linkage is best/always worked for me

I'd say this is the best option also if it was me

It should be fine for 4 weeks, you'd need to go through the fuse box and see what's taking power and to check the alternator is producing the voltage it should be, obvious places to start are boot/glove box lights staying on etc

You be maybe put the clutch plate in the wrong way round

I would just change it if it was me, if your only doing timing belt kit with no dephaser it's only around £320 mark on a cup fitted by someone who knows what their doing, not a lot of cash for piece of mind imo

306 gti6

If it was me I'd just get items painted with a good zinc primer undercoat, powder coating always starts to fail very easily on certain exposed items on the corners etc if the cars used as a daily etc from my experience, engine parts would be fine maybe but subframes, beams etc will get rattled...

Both utter bellends for this to take place where it did, if you's want to scrap each other then arrange a meet and fight like men instead of running about like dickheads, as said likely caused damage to other people's cars

I'd say it's not getting fuel, try 5amp fuse within engine bay fuse box

I run rf bridgestones on mine which are fitted from new, got 40k out the last set, they are a bit firm but grip really well in all conditions, tried some conti's on for a while but they ruined the drive so went back to Bridgestone, only issue is their slightly more expensive, I wouldn't fit non...

You can get engines from engine dynamics or contact Alex at awmotorsport, both of them could sort you out with what you need

The rust shown is very common considering these cars are getting on a bit now and the uk weather, you could buy one with no rust seen but its most likely been repaired in the past, they suffer back there due to stonechips to the galv coating and the fuel filler traps s**t at the back, if you...

You always need a semi grooved disc when running aggressive pads or the above happens

If it's sheared the bolt you'll also need to apply some heat to the threaded section within the beam after you've welded the nut on, it'll come out easy enough once heated

It might not be a suspension component rattling, I'd be looking at everything else around that area or turn the radio up a bit