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Cheers mate. I'll be pm'ing you in the next day or so in regards to the gearbox mate. Thanks mate.

Cheers buddy.

Thanks! Yes I have a feeling you may well be right! Lol

Thanks mate. My sentiments exactly!

Have you any rough ideas on the overall weight of the car when it's fully built?

@bashracing has some info on this I think?

Thanks mate. Lol as long as they're healthy I don't care about anything else!

Cheers mate. Fingers crossed whatever it is doesn't like cars! I cba faffing anymore! Lol Lol!! I don't think I'll have time for any of that!! Cheers though mate. :up:

Cheers mate. That's the plan! Lol! It can sit and rot mate before anything like that happens!! Cheers though buddy!

Cheers mate. :up:

Nothing to update on the cup I'm afraid. It's caused some quite large amounts of frustration recently when trying to get a safe map on it. I've now walked away from it instead of kicking every f**king panel in! In other news, this bundle of joy will be arriving in October. More to come. :cool:

If I manage to get there in July and you guys are out there I'll take you and @Fletcher out for a passenger lap mate. Show you lines/bravery etc. :wink: Yeah unfortunately it's a track where experience and track knowledge is key. The turn in dots have probably gone then now mate. They were...

8:35 is a very respectable lap time mate! A bloke who was staying in the same hotel as us ran out of fuel one year and joined the Bonngard club. He was in a RS4 and when he started his lap the fuel light was on..............he was also a smug prick, so I took great delight in taking the piss...

Never mind the write up and pics! We need videos man!!

If you are starting from scratch mate, I personally would pipe it all in with a bias valve. The compensator is piped up as a diagonal braking circuit, so it can cause headaches when you decide to get rid of it, not to mention money and time wasted!

You can drill and tap the original diff with the box in situ, but you need to stuff a rag in the gap, then smear it with grease to catch the swarf. It's not a 100% clean and safe way of doing it, but that would be the way I have and would do it.

From past experience, when the seals in the master cylinder have been pushed the wrong way, the pedal doesn't usually go hard when there's no servo assistance. It just remains spongy.

I don't think they need seam welding personally as they're quite a stiff chassis as they are. Once you add the cage it becomes really noticeable as well, or at least it did with mine. I've got one of the Clarke mig welders and it's a fantastic bit of kit for the price. It's the 160TE I think...

There's a specific sequence that you need to follow when bleeding the brakes up on these mate, but I don't know it off the top of my head I'm afraid. The only other things I can think of off the top of my head are that the seals have been over pressurised by the eezibleed and turned over on...

No mate, you don't need the circlip or the spacer/washer. Throw that in the bin.

Not bad! :wink:

Having the oulton Rs day in April was ridiculous imo. It's cold and usually crap weather, so I don't understand why they moved it from its usual August date. Unless it was cost related of course, which no doubt it was.

Yes it will fit fine. The down pipe runs far to close to the brake master cylinder though. You'll need a lot of heat shielding.

Nah not enough ignition in it tbf. Lol yeah I agree!

Not long enough! Lol! It's ridiculously close though now to starting when warm.

Lol not quite! Nor the dog!

Guess what's been running again after you left!

@krappy I'll reply later on mate. I've been a bit too busy to reply the past few days.

What readings you getting?

@SharkyUK i know more about this engine than most people know! Lol! I speak to Steve pretty much every night on my way to work so we chat about all sorts.