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I'm trying to help out a local garage that are having the same issues with a 1.6 16v. I'm pretty sure it's cam timing that's causing them problems, and i'd be confident that this is your issue too

always though they'd be crap. Drove a car with them last month (did about 70 miles in it) and it was like standard but low. Shocked me how good they were. I think they're identical to PI now to be honest (which I sell)

Conversion has to be something interesting and unusual to make it worth doing really. My old mk1 (RSI) with Spider engine was good becuase it was close to being un-replicable. I've still got the engine and I might put it in something like a mk2 RSI eventually.

Piper for top quality. Janspeed for sensible and best price

the alternative that's worth considering is that supercharger tuning (or at least centrifugal chargers) can be looked at a lot like N/A. 438s should be pretty fantastic with a Rotrex

works the other way round really, you need cams that encourage the turbo to spool. Generally the wilder the cams, the more suited they'll be to bigger turbos that boost later on for big power. Turbo cams tend to be a lot shorter duration, lower lift, and lots less overlap than N/A . A wild turbo...

be interesting. Not the cam choice I'd go for if speccing a turbo'd build

i bet the end of the shaft of the balljoint was touching the ABS ring

jesus yes, no way will it rotate fully at tdc

you'd never have known i'd only used that method with the engine out and upside down on a stand would you :p

don't need to do either. Just jack the engine up from below and put a piece of wood under the mount to hold it up while you get the sump off

sort of. doesn't work the same though as primary load is on a different sensor (MAP not TPS) so it's a bit crude in that is the main map altered rather than the decel triggers

always needs checking, manufacturing tollerences can move things around. Shouldn't be far out though. Cheaper option as you say, probably won't last as long, but they are still ok. I never used Q-drive, but i've used a dozen brands roughly and not had any come back with issues. Generally use...

you should have kept the original bolts in the arm, they fit best.

get a balljoint from ECP, they're fine. Even the cheaper ones they're currently selling are made by (femi) bilstein lol

won't be CV. that can't give you play at the wheel. Bearing is possible, check the hub nut is torqued correctly. Balljoint is an easy one to check, get a prybar between the bottom of the hub and the arm, and try to separate them, if the balljoint moves in and out of it's socket, it's shot.

sounds most likely track rod related. don't forget to check the inner joints aswell as the outer. they wear just as much, if not more than the outers

sorry, bit annoyed at the time as he was trolling around the forum talking nonsense and giving bad advice. The ph1 airbox is better than the ph2 but it's marginal. Heatsoak will normally only happen on a dyno, or in stationary traffic when it doesn't really matter. People get very worked up...

You may aswell just go to your local renault

about £150 is correct for that. non genuine simply will not fit properly

I have to ask..... why in f**ks name did you use a main dealer?????

new life target, gt86 by mid 2015

wrong.

ph1 system is only different if you have single lambda. janspeed mild steel stealth is cheaper than genuine and better quality

same as most engines 1.4 and above. new is worth it imo, doesnt need to be genuine though

if you increase the stroke, then the piston and rod have to travel further in the same time. The higher you rev, the faster they're going. Now the speed itself isn't the problem, it's the sudden change of direction at the top and bottom of the stroke. Huge loads from this will usually take...

stroker crank on it's own.....probably a couple of G's, then having it reworked/balanced/knife edged......more. All looks like nice bits. I'd question the point of stroking an already very long stroke engine though. High revs would rip it apart.

this only applies to cars with rear brake bias valves. If it has ABS, then this is nonsense

best check the upper mounts are where they're meant to be and not falling apart then

check the bolts are still there in the dogbone, or that they've not loosened right off