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you must be joking!!! I used to use Motorway mineral oil for running in. £2.99 for 4.5 litres. First change after 20-50 miles to get any assembly lubes and contamination out. another 50-100 miles on the same, giving it lots of use and using engine braking as much as possible, then onto the good...

well timed bump, I got a few more in stock today :)

brake cleaner spray

yes, mount is worth checking. could even be loose brackets. the nut under the mount can easily come loose

ED cams are "copys" of Colombo and Bariani, not cat 428s. 428s or copys of them would be WAY down on that figure. Be interesting to see a graph, they sound lairy!

it could just be shot then. the peril of used parts. to check the joints, grab the shaft and pull it around, look for play in any direction.

did the shaft come from a ph1 or a ph2? they're quite different

What spec is your car, and is the shaft from the EXACT same spec vehicle?

with another btcc car on the grid, we'll have to give Jay and tony some more power ;)

saw the mess the 206 and fiesta were in. Same fiesta that T-boned Sam in the cup a few weeks back I think. Hell of a days racing, good result, well done :)

Only says one thing. that they have to because of the rules.

Twingo 133 is a better option if they want a 1.6 petrol. Same engine, lighter, Lots more fun

just to pick a big hole in this, I've personally removed a ph1 box, and fitted a Ktec induction kit and gained 8bhp. so you definitely won'tlose power, and the length of that pipe in the picture will give a big chunk of torque

That looks pretty awesome to me actually

as above M1109 is a standard compound, DS performance pads are near enough the same as standard too. I'd disregard EBC pads altogether personally. ds2500 are expensive and un needed on the road.

Much much easier to unbolt the balljoint from the arm. similarly, undoing the shock to hub bolts can cause issues with camber adjusters if fitted. Unbolting the balljoint from the arm is foolproof

renuine rears, only, ever. All other disks come with sub-standard wheelbearings. The only other way to do it is buy separates and press in good bearings, but it usually works out more expensive

I like them. Bit slow though and economy is the same as a 197. Diesel is a good option, honestly. if they do any significant mileage the extra purchase cost might be ofset in fuel savings over the year, not becuase the diesel is amazing on fuel but because the petrol is so bad

as are Pagid. Infact brembos are the pikey option really

that's the official name for cup packs.

Those are the replacements for the faulty batch. They're a bit longer but fix the knocking entirely.

same for me, I could have an iphone tomorrow if i wanted, but I just don't. Can't get on with the OS, I don't find it intuative, but i feel the same about apple computers and they're made with the same/similar layout and user base in mind. Just doesn't suit me, it's not a case of better or...

Stop talcing your balls!!!!!

I've seen a litre of water come out of a 182 box before. It's no surprise how much they rot really

erm....that's not how it works at all. Yes a faulty CTS could cause overfueling, but the extra fuel doesn't cool the engine down, or certainly not to any discernable degree where you could tell from the external temperature of the block. Compression test needed

you can't tell if they're wrong until they go onto a car unfortunately. Not sold or fitted any for ages to be fair so I've only sorted out issues that other "specialists" couldn't, and I'm not sure on the age of the kits

call again

you need to speak to the people you bought from. Vmaxx have a UK distributor and all issues have to be dealt with through them

what a smack head. look at the q&a....£4000 seats? pmsl

You'd be better off with a more reliable and more easily servicable 4 pot. Generally the more pistons in a caliper, the more likely you'll have issues with them seizing. This is also related to piston size. If you want better brakes, look at larger radius disks, that will give you a better...