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Modern oils wont degrade as fast as you think. I'd not be particularly worried about increasing intervals as long as you use a heavier oil (higher heat stability) the reason I recommend a 6k oil change on a road car is down to contamination in the oil rather than the oil itself breaking down

probably explains why the guy you got it off didn't keep it long and got rubbish mpg if he had no lambda connected (if it's the one i think it was) I bet it's still active in the software too. Use one from a mk1 1.8 16v/williams. The 182 sensor is a 4 wire, Omex prefers a 3 wire sensor so it...

Thanks Si :) Pleased with it, and the car is a lot quicker now. Interested to see dyno results from a head port job running standard cams now.

bolt on each rear corner of the bumper going up into the wing

lube the s**t out of the captive nuts on the main long diff bolts. Changed one last week and had to cut the bolt as the captive started to spin

Thats a bit of an improvement ;) Just some mapping to come, and see what it can manage with it's "new" low mileage bottom end

they'd decent guys, just their software suuuuuuucks. I told them this when i went over there with a car

not even close It's a GEMS based software, it's LIGHTYEARS ahead of even the latest emerald software which can't even make live changes. Lumenition used to use a much older version of similar software, and older Omex units used MAP2000. It is now however about 5 years since there were any...

it's not that it's got any issue running the engine, you know I've run one myself for 2 years, and it's been on this car, as a daily for 6. The trouble is with newer cars and integrated systems. An older road car (mk1 valver etc) will still be absolutely fine and throw up no dash lights. I'll...

the "breather" isn't a breather. it's ZERO issue at all. As for dash lights, I'd think as long as you can make the lights go out you'll be ok. Personally I'm in the process of fitting a GEN90 with my ITB engine as it has proper CAN control

put the pieces of the puzzle together

Better is a very subjective term. Brakes are also a very personal thing, there is no one size fits all solution. Personally I found DS2500 to work well but lack feel. I'll be running M1155 in my car which will be mostly for the road but will see a track occasionally

did you make sure the pads are moving freely in the calipers?

they're running a LOT lighter ;) they're also in need of an upgrade as they've started to get fade I'd suggest some Mintex M1166

metal on metal, interferance fit. There is no "plastic part"

what i mean is, there's no separate part, just tap it into the hole (light smear of sealer to be 100% oil tight)

they're not held in specifically, just a friction fit

use an extractor to pull the remaining bit of tube out (i've had to do it to an F7P). On the spare block, you'll have to use a drift to tap out the tube from underneath

my all time record is 2 hours ;) Usually work a little more methodically than that though but it was a bit of a "see how quick i can do it" thing

Are you doing karting next weekend? I'll bring my diagnostics kit and confirm it's Lambda

compatability isn't to do with the engine. That's not actually possible. It's down to plug resistances and loads put on the coil being incorrect. NGK plugs are consistently reliable with the correct resistance. PFR6E-10 are the OE plugs. These are exactly the same spec as BCPR6ES but using a...

I did one today that had the timing out. Been like it for 4 years since the last change apparently. I'd estimate it was out by enough to have cost 15 to 20bhp, yet the car still drove "fine". One notable thing was it only did 34mpg on a long motorway run

£275 all in using genuine bits here ;)

Another set of knackered Billys in today btw. LOL. Thats what you get for developing dampers on silky smooth tracks and not on the roads they're used on.

I've seen 3, but all caused by other serious problems that weren't addressed properly or in time

PMSL, I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks that's sanctimonious bullshit

a worthwhile garage wont fit parts you supply. The K9K isn't too bad an engine to do the timing on, anyone that's done a few methodically should be ok with it. I was doing a couple a day at one point

we sell anything they sell, and other stuff too. We're a "dealer" for all ktec branded items and kits, but completely independent so we're free to develop and sell our own stuff too. anything special order, email paul at sales@519automotive.co.uk

I've seen a fair few with the subframe damaged worse than the arm too. Seems like pot luck though

As Jack says, parts are cheap. On Heathers car (Jacks' mrs) it proved cheaper to replace the bottom arms at the same time as the balljoints were buggered too, and the drop link bolts were seized solid in the arms and rounded off, so labour would have been at least as much as new bits