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next you'll be telling me the spacers in between the claipers aren't genuine brembo as well:cry:

are you trying to say they aren't genuine brembo brackets;)

pretty certain they are fox, have got a set in the garage, recognise the valve in a stupid position. wait until you feel how heavy they are!!

anyone got any idea what these are off originally? no dust seals and the piston edges are drilled. forgot to look for any numbers on them!!

i've used all srots over it, hamerite aerosol and brush, primer, high build, normal aerosol, hard had aerosol. not had a problem with anything reacting to it, if you do use it just make sure it's bone dry before you use anything over it.

can't believe i'm going to recommend them, but halfords do an adhesion promoter, or something like that, in an aerosol. i've used it for loads of stuff, plastics, ally, cast etc and it works well. although not sure about using it with plastikote?

as long as there are no mechanical issues first to check camber and tracking. mine was miles out when i first got it (had been kerbed) was something like -1.5 on the o/s and +1.0 on the n/s, made for very interesting cornering;)

i missed that bit out as a test:o

did you change no.4 or no.1? back to front don't forget. also measure the resistance on the injectors, usually shows dodgy one up.

Don't think the reno price is too bad?

you can get one form euro for a touch over £50

Look at where the seals sit, seen a fair few leak from there. Normally take seal out, slap silicone round it and then shove it back in.

Outside edge of the disc has rusted and blown out. Tap the edge with a hammer and you'll see it start to fall off, almost like the face of the disc is a seperate layer. Mine have been like that for a while, makes some loveoly noises;)

did you not tension the belt with all three pulleys loose? how did the locking tool not fit?

you could always change the rod as well and save yourself buying a blow torch and a lot of swearing and grunting;)

i always find tdc with a big screw driver dropped down no4 and then use the locking pin, there is a balancing driling right next to the locking one and on the other side the flat of the crank web (i think?) if you get it on this side you can either loosen or tighten the crank bolt when the web...

had bosch (think they are a double platinum? not the super 4) in mine for about 6,000 miles now and it's fine. i remember years ago just about everyone claiming reno's wouldn't run properly unless they had beru plugs in them.

are you sure you got the crank pin in the right hole? how did you check it was at tdc? if your answer to that was using the locking pin then i'm guessing you missed the right hole;)

:lolup:that's got to be the most tenuous link you could have, you might as well say that they all had tyres on so it was the fact that they had tyres on caused problems with the plugs

I run mine and the wife's with valvoline 0/40 fully synth and both fine with it, hers has done just about 150,000 miles as well. Wouldn't run one on a 60 though, can't imagine the dephaser and the solenoid liking it that much;)

go through the centre

the horse shoe is just to hold the cams.

just remembered hearing about a few killing the woodruf key on the crank pulley. logically it's got to be either that or the chain breaking?

just have a look for a local bearing stockist, you'll be surprised how much you can save on bearings.

used loads of their stuff over the years, unless you're a cleaning, sorry, valeting snob you'll be fine with it;)

would be why it isn't plugged in;)

sure there is something around there on cars with aircon?

you use an air line to pressurise the cylinder with the piston at tdc. it's unusual for an engine to have zero compression on all cylinders though.

pressurise each cylinder one at a time, if you've genuinely got no compression you'll hear air escaping when you start.

new valve and a bit of chemical metal:D