Search results

battery is ok, changed it 2 years ago. up and down revving only happens when pressing the brake pedal 2-3 times when in neutral. it's like pressing both brake and accel pedal at once. not having a messy idle to be clear. first lambda will be changed soon though as I'm having some mpg issues

hammerite is what you need. many used this and it's great quality paint. wire brush on the calipers, degreaser, one coat of paint, 2 hours later the second coat, 4 hours later you're done

as I can remember a good and close to std setup would be: front toe: 1mm out rear: 1mm in camber: ~.30 negative on the front ~ 1,4-1,5 negative rear you could go up to 1,5 neg in the front without excessive wear (using camber bolts or adjustable top mounts like the AST ones) hope that helps

v12 is a good all rounder at a good price (something like the PE2) rs-2 is more track focused, a softer compound, stiffer sidewalls, orientated towards dry grip. increased wear rate obviously

^ if you like smth more street like and prefer the low profile tyre look or this ^ if you're planing some track days and want cheap tyres I'd have both tbh, ultras with summer tyres and street driving and 2118's for winter tyres and trackdays

any place they stock the rs-2 these days?

back on this problem again.. It looks like the revvin thing is not entirely gone as I thought. It still does it when the engine is cold and while on the move (standing still in neutral with engine on and pressing the brake pedal nothing happens). let's say driving at 30 mph in 3rd, then going in...

don't really wanna leave the rest inside. one of mine snapped inside (hence the removal of my cover) and couldn't get the damn thing out (tried to drill through what was left of it but no success)

I want to remove the engine cover from a friend's 172 but one of the bolts is kinda damaged from previous attempts. not sure what to do now :(

^the conductor inside is also different on the reds, both material and thickness wise.

hard to keep these cf splitters intact isn't it? :) very nice car!

I think I know where you're coming from, and I'm not surprised tbh unfortunately

:))) everybody has a "loud scale" :D no hard feelings!

one of the loudest. but top quality though ;)

oh and get the 2,5" cat mod done ;) just for having a better joint to the center section if nothing else

exhaust (if you say not too raspy) - milltek, scorpion rs 192 (milltek can be bought from k-tec and delivered to your door) induction: depends on your budget and if you want the noise. panel filter or v6 airbox give the best results mainly. If you really want the noise and something to look good...

I packed mine with general purpose black silicone the other day (heat resistant up to 120 degrees-which seemed enough) an finally the tailpipes sit properly when engine cold at least.. once exhaust gets hot the left one gets off-center a bit but I'm not too bugged about that pic showing when...

depends mostly on what you want really. my car is a daily driver mainly and I knew from the start that I wanted solid mounts. I didn't worried about vibrations and if you do then maybe you should go for new std mounts plus powerflex dog bone

very good indeed^

there are stock 182's over the 170 bhp mark, with a remap, inlets and exhaust I'd expect it to be closer to the 180 figure or at least around 175

trader or not I'm not gonna swap mine again! It's too cold outside LOL

my rear shocks were leaking bad at around 45-50k so no surprise if yours are on their way out

this is the thread I was looking for. made sense and swapped mine with the thin part under the box http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?528347-Powerflex-Dogbone-Arghhhhhhh!/page3&highlight=powerflex+dog+bone

now he's confused! LOL. true to be said I ran mine like mike said for almost a year and nothing happened

195/45 r15 are way too small, better do the bumper bracket mod if you'll experience rubbing for looks I'd like a wheel that fills the arches rather than a low profile tyre look

if it's really mapped with the rs tuner module I'd contact Henk at fastchip and for sure he'll be able to give advice or to sort the problem

looks like nothing I've seen in a MK II, maybe it's custom made?

as in the picture above (thin end under the box) there were some discussions on this and many (me included) had the bush mounted the other way. Looks like there are more vibrations and more strain on the bolt if fitted with the thick part under the box

you'll be pleased I reckon!

this just made me curious. I'll pop a question and see what they tell