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Oh yes :D Well worth it bang for buck, done a few other things recently and think i'll be going back for stage 2 :evil:. Little project thread here of what i've done if your interested: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=348663

If theres no ABS light on the dash when you turn the ignition on then you haven't got it. My moneys on you not having it anyway.

FF all the way, chrome is quick but still has a long way to come imo.

Thats your option other than taking it to renault and paying £300+. Ring them first if your not sure about it, theres a number on the listing.

Standard pah! Get it mapped ;). Jealous anyway, love ultra red.

£140ish iirc.

Don't take this the wrong way but I don't think you know what your getting yourself in for. Locking tools are essential too.

Makes a slight difference, I wouldn't bother spending any more than the RS tuner on it tbh.

Grille out and bring it out the front, still mega mega toit though.

As long as its a FF 172 not a cup it should fit fine. Still a bit of a pig of a job though.

Do not use the breather to fill the box with oil for gods sake, use the filler plug on the front as fred says otherwise you'll never to able to get the level right.

Well it won't take the light off the dash without the computer being reset/changed, and tbh i'd just get a new seat save f**king about with it. Never going to look spot on is it imo.

182 cup ones are completely different as you've found.

Think they are different yes.

+1

Don't think it is with the Ph1 172 but then again i'm not 100% sure on ph1 wiring.

Well when i'm slowing down for a corner when pressing on, i'll get on the brakes down on the clutch into neutral then a blip with my toe up to the right revs then in on the clutch and into gear and back off the clutch again before the revs drop. Slots into gear very sweetly and will be smooth...

Has the pretensioner fired when you hit the curb? That'll lock the belt. Thats what the wires for btw.

Depends how much damage is done and whats shafted, if the subframe is bent then a fair bit.

As I said above on the Ph2 it goes over the canbus network, believe the ph1 172 does the same. Guessing your looking to get it working? Won't worth without a uch in the mix I believe.

If its gone off now, no.

Doesn't tend to do the chassis mounting points much good either. I bent one a lot less than that and it was never 100% right again.

+1 with fred. I've had 3 and neither one of them has been driven "kindly" and none of the gearboxes deteriotated on me at all. Heal and toe double declutched shifts for high rpm downchanges goes a long way. Once I got used to doing it it just became automatic.

The ecu can meter fuel knowing the fuel rail pressure and injector flow rating then how long its pulsing the injectors for, think it uses canbus for the data transfer or the Ph2 does at least.

This: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-981-fuchs-titan-sintofluid-sae-75w-80-synthetic-manual-transmission-fluid.aspx or: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-723-castrol-epx75w-80-gear-oil.aspx

3rd gear syncro is worn/wearing, common thing when the boxes aren't treated too well. Oil change might help make sure to stick with standard 75w80 and do not deviate, may or may not improve it.

Front door card removal guide is here if you want it http://www.getflat.co.uk/pics/MR365MEGANE7-42-46.pdf

Nothing i've seen before, can't see how it could happen if its been tightend correctly. Seeing as that has to come off to release the diff iirc then its got to be their fault. You remove the box and then let them fit it I assume? Shame for the ballache you've got to go through removing it. But...

Loving that colour, nothing I could deal with everyday but v.v.nice all the same.

Its 5yrs, I wouldn't worry about it yet tbh. Would look to be doing both aux and cam belts when it gets to 4 years though personally.