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Re: Mk1 Hybrid Project Looks pretty brisk, and the induction noise of the F7* takes some beating. Great soundtrack!

Thats the rough jist of it.

Brings everything up to CAT1, has an CAT2 immobilser as part of the cars electronics and if its standard will have a cobra CAT2->CAT1 upgrade jobbie on it. Could also be a sigma if it wasn't fitted at the import centre.

You getting fuel and spark? If neither it'll probably be the TDC sensor. Or could be something more sinister.

I would assume that was the soleniod yes. Don't know how much they are but i'd change it and see what happens.

Not a great deal of point in trying to press on in these conditions tbh. Waste of time and it tends to end badly.

Looking good, cambelt isn't hard just fiddly due to lack of space don't even think you'll be torquing anything back up down there FT ftw. And cranked and ratchet spanners are essential tools. Also you want another bottle of box oil as it takes 3.1l and you get 3.2 or so in in my experience with...

Arranging insurance prior is fine unless the car turns out to be a shitter then you've wasted money, i'd just spent a tenner on a dayinsure policy to insure it for the day if you buy it then ring flux on the monday morning. You're covered for a test drive then too obviously.

As said the bearings are pressed into the centre of the disc and fit onto the spigot hub which is part of the axle, hence the reason the cheapest you'll get a set of genuine discs (ie with abs rings and bearings in) is £130 or so but its a false economy to buy things seperate imo. Especially on...

Wheres the leak? And probably a fair bit if the headgaskets being changed as the cambelt shouldn't be refitted once its been tensioned once. Plus the labour involved to change it in itself. You'd have to ask them to get an idea tbh as labour varies.

There isn't a GrpN remap for the 182, just the 172 afaik. When I lost the cruise control on my 172 after using the rstuner I had to email henk to get a custom file for it to work properly. So I guess its in their hands and as I don't think they do the maps themselves it could take a little time.

LOL! Thats a good one!

Upper/Lower inlet fanimold gasket too to do it to the letter.

Idler comes in the aux belt kit 100%, yeh can change the crank pulley bolt if your that way inclinded. Its recommended if its over a certain length and its a stretch jobbie, haven't ready about the cam pulley bolts though as you don't need to undo them i'd leave them be.

Somewhere around the centre console/handbrake comes to mind but god knows where from.

Splitting a box changing the syncro and sticking it all back together properly (the hard part) is a very complex job so unless you've done it before/very experienced mechanically i'd just chuck a new box on. You'll be faced with this...

Yes you need the later canbus stalk control adapter.

Water pump should be fine, aux belt is another kit which comes with the idler and tensioner for that. You also want the core plugs for the end of the head for when you prise them out to fit the cam locking tool, and obviously you want the locking tools. Works out to circa 300 sheets in parts...

Ktec is the same map as rstuning. They don't to do them themselves iirc.

I would imagine that any rack from an electric power steered clio should work as the motor is on the column. Don't know if there are any other specifics that vary to take into account ie steering ratio etc to choose the best one.

Another vote for rstuning. Paul is a top bloke.

Crossover cables are for connecting two computers without a hub/switch and for uplink on (generally older afaik) non autosensing switches/hubs.

Dunno but i'll guess it was running in 10mbps? You only need 4 cores for 100mbps, all 8 for gigabit though iirc.

Pedal first port of call, 3krpm idle is default when the ECU can't "see" the pedal when its doing it if you hold the brake pedal down does it drop to a normal idle?

No should just go off, the smoke usually follows in my experience :o.

Would imagine to do it through renault would be circa £800-£1k, they should pay for it though with some whinging. Harry_manbacks was a 172 so well out of warrenty and I don't think he payed for it.

The cams are advanced off idle not retarded, increasing the overlap. They will run permanently advanced but the idle is as rough as a badgers. Keeping or loosing the VVT doesn't overly matter tbh, as it can be altered via a map afaik. You could run them permanently advanced/retarded or loose it...

Its got nothing to do with the VVT, its just the cam profile coming into its ideal rev band and the VE picking up due to it.

Depends if it needs it or not, as theres a fair bit more stuff to come off to do the clutch as the subframe ideally should come off completely imo then theres the driveshafts to remove etc along with the actually gearbox on/off.

Yeh its been done before.