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The siren is under the nearside skuttle panel, not sure where the main control box is. Can't be far, follow the wires if it comes to it.

Yeah very true, does make it a long easier when you get to the box out bit for sure. Guess it also comes down to me being idle mostly :o and can't be arsed to remove the upper part of the gearbox mount, exhaust, hubs etc.

Pretty sure you'll find that won't fit. It won't with the Ph2s-> anyway.

I've found it to be the fan, its a two speed jobbie that runs at a slow speed all the time the AC is being used.

I've always gone for the drop subframe and box out the bottom option. I also never removed half of the things you have, the haynes manual agrees with you but I found a lot of the things it tells you to remove can be left in and worked around.

0-60 is booked for 9.3. IG10 for the RSi, IG8 for the Ph2 Dynamique(+).

afaik you'll have to push the button every time. Its a momentry switch which activates a function in the UCH to disable the ESP, you can't set it up to be permanently off, the only way maybe is through CLiP but i'm not sure as i've never seen one or had anything to do with them.

You don't need them but you should use them really, not to is a bad practise imo. Its all fine until a spring pops off in your face.

Prise it out with a screwdriver carefully. You will put a dent in the old one, and your handbrake too if your not careful.

iirc these need a direct battery feed because of the amp in them, hence the box on the constant (yellow) feed its got a fuse in it. I think its this model that needs it.

Plenty there within budget...

Limp home mode will almost definetly be the ecu cover cutting through the loom tripping it into limp home mode. You need to remove the cover and repair (read tape up) the loom to stop it earthing/shorting.

...or tdc sensor, the ecu cover cutting through the loom. Could be a million things with the D4F lump.

Didn't think there was anything on the front wishbone? I haven't heard of/seen anything anyway, the height of the front shouldn't change its only the rear depending on weight in the back.

Yeh 75w90 would be fine too, shouldn't make any major difference really between the two.

The UCH is the computer that controls all the cars auxillary systems like the lights, climate control, wipers, central locking etc. But you don't need to worry about that, its only an idea and it'd be the sensor on the rear axle that'd be the problem if any.

You want EP75w80, fully synth way give some benefit.

Yep there all turbo'd.

Theres always going to be oil there due to the crankcase breather setup, its fine don't worry about it.

Could be the auto adjuster sensor on the back dying and telling the UCH that the rear ride height is changing so it adjusts the lights. Then again could be a few things really tbh.

GDI are the cheapest i've found especially if you become a club member and get the discount. Just had some at the weekend they were ~£130.

The one for the Mk2 Ph2-> clio covers quite a few things, barring engine obviously. Gearbox oil is 75w80.

I get a feeling he means the Ph2 compared to the Ph1 in which case it'll fit with some tweaking iirc.

Not specifically sure how it is but i'm pretty sure its adjustable in some way.

I thought you adjusted the auto level sensor on the rear axle rather than the adjusters themselves?

Never again, as already said it shows every mark, scratch and dirt. Looks brilliant after you've cleaned it until you drive it anywhere.

As is my understanding the TDC sensor is a hall effect device so the target on the flywheel induces a voltage in the TDC coil as it passes the sensor the ECU interprets this pulse and works out the crank position from it. From this it works out the cam positions so it knows what piston/cylinder...

Yep, thats what we did with my mates. Hasn't started rusting again yet. *touch wood*.

On lutterworth road about 7.30ish I think. Rather low.

Thats one of the better ones i've seen bodywise tbh, and for £550 you can't complain. Hell i'd have bought that for 550 notes.