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The UCH is under there with several relays on it hence the clicking, as the UCH is part of the immobiliser maybe a loose connection stopped it from working. What was the immobiliser LED (the one in the clocks) doing when you were trying to start it? Did it go out?

Basically if the new cable has throw it out the adjuster in the top of the clutch pedal will take up the slack (or free off) so it'll feel the same as before after a bit. Bite wise, generally a sky high clutch bite point indicates that the clutch is on its way out. Although every clio i've...

Just wondering because I fucked my old one up pretty well getting it out to fit the silver one and the handbrake plastic has a mark in it now from when I levered it out. I seem to remember someone posting a way where you could get the handbrake cover to slide off and take the button with it???

The trouble is I really really really want one, but I guess i'll be hanging back for another year. Well at least it'll give me more time to save more money I guess, wish i'd bought one a 1.6 with climate and leccy sunroof now as well but I guess the grass is always greener :dapprove:. I just...

Thread hijack but how do you get the button out without f**king it up? Oh and giles its the Ph3 Dynamique that came with the silver button :rasp:.

Thats the conclusion i'm drawing to tbh. I just can't see the point in paying that much for insurance, £1k for this one (mods) is bad enough really. If I touch wood make it to 3yr ncb and 20 that should make it moderately bearable I hope, although i'm far from convinced it will be though tbh...

Yep its real, Merlin engine in a Rover SD1 (whats left of it) shell. Theres a load more pics on pistonheads somewhere.

Who with? Always had a bit of a soft spot for them. Admiral want £2.1k for a 172, 3k without mum and dad on the policy! And no I don't live in the ghetto, its old b******s 'r' us round here and its the best area in the town.

I did say time ;) :D.

Who did you go with insurance wise? Got itchy feet, just trying to find sub 2k insurance quotes (if they exist). I'm 19, 2yrs ncb and been driving 2 years.

You can stick any engine in any car as long as it'll physically fit and you got the time, skills and inclination.

I'll retract that then, they look like 2.0 16v badges in the first pic though!

On a tractor too. About 5x worse than on a 1.2.

Its not fully synth, search for one of oilman's posts. They'll explain.

Think its a case of it not actually being fully synth like for example the silkolene pro stuff is but it does the job.

I've been using it recently. Made by Comma, not bad stuff really had no problems with it anyway.

Your after two 58mm bolt spaced front hubs. Must be 58mm ones for obvious reasons, they'll probably need to be off a Ph2.

Unzip the back of the seat covering and you can drill holes in the wood and cable tie to the the grid in the back of the seat. fubars guide: http://www.fubarnet.com/amplifier.html I've done it, it works well.

Just attach it to your post.

Re: V6 racing videos Sounds tasty :evil:.

Yep, being a dynamique+ whoever ordered it originally decided to go for the alarm as well. Even my 1.6 which should have one doesn't! (no its not an import either), soon sorted that one.

Unlikely. Not a standard option anyway. If it has an led down by the gearstick and ultrasonic sensors mounted on the top of the A pillar plastics then its got one. 99% haven't.

How much oil has it lost? If its a lot the box oil will want topping up.

You could do it yourself for about ~£100 in parts, and its a right laugh i'll tell you. ;)

Err yeh that for the airbag computer has fired airbag/pretensioners at some point. Seeing as the fix to the common problem is to play with the wires under the seat/solder them I find it strange that it hasn't been done. And if he'd taken it to renault they'd have wanted to fix it. Probably...

Aux belt will want changing with it. I'd say dropping the lump is more hassle than its worth even if you have to change the clutch as its straighforward enough to do that with the engine in, just a pain.

Sounds about right.

No, 172 wheels are ET42/45 iirc. Thats why you need 5mm rear spacers to bring them out to (or close to) ET37, else they'll catch.

I'd guess its to do with the metal contracting as it rapidly cools.

Nope, different hub/strut bolt spacings.