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loosen the cable off under the heatsheild, pump the break up, then tighten the cable back up to the desired amount of clicks. if the cable is holding the handbrake lever on the calipers out even slightly the self adjuster ratchet in the calipers cant work

back the handbrake cable right off as far as you can then pump the brake pedel up. if the handbrake levers on the calipers are being held on even slightly the ratchet mechanism cant catch the next tooth and wont ratchet up.

and you do know you dont just undo the bleed nipple and pump away--- you only dont want the nipple open at any time other than when the peddles down or it will suck air back up

i did rear axle bushes on a golf which involves taking the rear axle + rear brake assemblies down leaving you with no flexy pipes to clamp off,, one side drained and i beleive i got air in the pump, read the tech bulletin for it and it said i needed a vw computer to put the abs ecu in to some...

so what you're saying is get it repaired then get the hammer out ;)

am i the only one that couldn't help chuckling at the first line:lolup: on a more serious note though, you will find the same switch is fitted to 50% of all car manufacturers cars so a trip to pretty much any breakers will find you one

pull the plastic cover off round it and have a look for coins in there, i had exactly the same thing it went up and down fine but stopped short of the bottom and held it on a bit and it was because a 50p had rolled under the lever

well yeah but for it to knock the tracking out something has to have moved, i could quite easily reset it but i'd much rather figure out what exactly has moved ;)

the sensor just jacks the idle speed up a tad on full lock/high pressure to stop it stalling

Had a little knock on the n/s/f of my clio a little while ago,, and since that going in a straight line the steering is a little left hand down- straighten it up the car goes right. if you take your hands of the wheel the wheel will sit a little left hand down but it still accelerates dead...

follow the live wire from the battery untill you end up at the starter motor, then give the wire a wiggle at the end of it and try again

anti roll bars dont leak, and noisy wheel bearings are an MOT fail, so that counts out that its a wheel bearing. does the noise go away if you dip the clutch?

Anybody be able to look it up for me?need to order one up! unless somebody has one laying about? cheers

drain the oil, undo the 3 13's on the gaiter, pop the bottom balljoint off and pull the shaft out the gearbox end carefully, you will see the 3 bearings, and you will see all the needles under them, will be pretty obvious if you have a problem, the joint is replacable i beleive they are normally...

right not to put too fine a point to it but you are now screwed, the joint in question is whats known as a tripod joint, uses 3 rollers on needle bearings, if you pull the joint out of the box theres a good chance that the needle rollers have fallen down in to the gearbox, and now you have...

yep, i do it regular to check if leads are tracking out you get used to it, lol.

if it runs on 2 its pretty much gaurenteed to be either coil pack or a map problem.

i done mine this way purely because i was told it wasnt possible. i managed to lift it out the top on my own but i had somebody lay under the ramp on a board lifting it in to place putting it back

you are looking at the wrong bolts! the two bolts you are trying to undo are actually triangle shaped and hold the front part of the caliper on, i sprayed mine i removed the caliper 2x 13mms and hold the back with a 17, and then unbolt the caliper bracket with i think a 19

most/all the exhast valves will be bent, never seen one yet damage a valve guide and never seen a damaged piston from a snapped belt. or should i say never seen it damage it in a way that will cause problems bent rod etc

even on the calipers that you wind back when you apply the brake the piston dosn't twist out. its only wound back not out again its a ratchet mechanism that ratchets on a thread on the piston pushes it out, and you have to manually wind the piston back in to said adjuster

i find it easier than pressing the casing out setting some weird shaped hubs up on the press can take forever :rolleyes:

i'm not the only one that uses the mig welder trick!

the rocker shaft! from memory its held on by 4 bolts and 2 of them are oilways but i think thats the middle two. if it is one of the bolts that carrys oil to the rockershaft then it may be noisy due to oil starvation

the lift on f1 cams is incredible! considering the things spin at 10k RPM you couldn't have hydraulicly opened valves in an engine like that for the same kind of reason they do away with hydraulic lifters in high performance engines!

newman supply cams to a couple of f1 teams!

a button that opens doors puts hazards on and things? what button are you refering to the inertia switch?? i thought it just cut the fuel pump.

it def dosn't mean anything as i've dealt with my mates series 1 rs turbo round corners many times in my stock 1.2 just the straight lines that get me :lolup:

dont think i'll be using the stuff again, had the carwash that did my car put some on for me yesterday and im fairly certain it was the cause of my car ending up in a big tank splapper yesterday on the a127 at about 80