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any parts supplier that stock aftermarket exhausts will have a blanking bolt for it. they come on alot of downpipes etc when you buy them for applications that dont need it, got a couple in my box.

not sure what the speedo drive is like in these not looked at one and not sure what part of the box its driven off- but on alot of cars you find the when the speedo is driven by the diff when the speedo stops working its generally because the box is knackered.. the diff develops end float and...

the rule "if they are there they have to work" is one that applies to lights on cars - just not front fogs. it applies to things like the center rear brake light- if its there the whole length of it has to work, if its not there or obviously done away with its a pass. can actually get away with...

oh, and they take about 10 secs to change and cost 37 quid each from gsf

unbolt all of them (10mm bolts) start the car and with it running lift each one up in turn-you will know which ones not working as the engine note will not change. they usually go in pairs.. you will find one maybe two that dont change the way the engine runs when lifted up.

No its not - front fogs are in no way shape or form testable - only time they become testable is if they have a smashed lense that has sharp edges. but operation wise they arent part of the test, only o/s/r fog.

its just his legend car with a twingo shell on it - can hear the bike engine and what terry grant does can be much more appreciated if you watch him in his TVR - if you have ever driven a chimera you will know its not the best of cars for visibility and the way he takes it sideways through...

take a pic of the wires. they normaly come with a plug but if you follow it back to the actual power pack for them its only 2 wires a live and an earth.

Had a quick check over of my car thismorning after my car developed some unusual handling charecteristics and found both front shocks leaking. i've got eibach springs on the car which obviously are lowered slightly so im wondering if i should be looking at some better shocks. not interested in...

i've had a similar thing happen to a dual mass flywheel - not sure if the 172's use them-but it took me forever to sus what this knock was. do you get the clonk if you were to put handbrake and foot on the brake, then slowly take up drive in first then reverse?

do you get fuel out of it when its cranking? you need to check what you do and dont have to be in with a chance of finding the problem. first things first start with obvious check all the fuses-even if it dosn't seem feesable you'd be surprised how many times even problems that seem most complex...

thats not the purpose of them, the block is cast in sand, and the holes left in the block are as a result of how the water gallerys etc are cast in to it.

both front and rear are 13cm (5.25in). the fronts if you fit components the dash top needs to come off to change the tweeters/run the wiring... grills pull off

tracking is not an mot fail!

oh, and brakes are always done in pairs you never just change one side!

dont think its that low it depends how you drive! cant be that low when bought my 1.2 it was on 29k and the pads were under 1mm thick and the discs were completely slaughtered

just to let eveyone know - as of last week, there are a new set of reasons for rejection in the MOT test regarding number plates - one of which being no bs mark, manufacturers name and postcode

so you've got a new shaft with 2 cv joints on either end? in that case you are trying to undo the wrong thing. look on the other side where the wheel bolts to, undo the big hub nut in the middle and the whole thing comes out

just turn them on they will dry out. need to be on a little while though

southend meet tommorow night i hear you say ?

what cylinder? master cylinder wheel cylinder in rear brakes fronts are calipers have to change the lot. the whole hydraulic system can be changed but not sure what they are changing the term brake cylinder could mean a few things

i've done loads of them, i remove the box and completely and dependant on how bad they are cut+ heatshrink the wires,. think we only charge an hours labour for it. lol

by altering ignition advance- at the expensive of power+torque. big article on it in this months fast ford.. ranging from generic crap fuel up to shell top of the range petrol by adding the amount of advance that could be added before det was detected meant a gain of about 20hp.

no but higher octane fuel=more resistance to det therefore more scope for boost without lowering cr.

hmm. i agree with the fact that the 172 conversion isn't worth it, but the 1.6 in question we have serviced the last 2 years and its only being scrapped for accident damage- did i mention the engines from a megane? the engine in questions already had its cambelt and waterpump.. think i might...

good, and dont worry it took me about 2 hours pissing about with an xtype the first time i came across it trying to work that one out ;)

and also, if i have to use the 1.6 management what sort of job is it getting that little lot singing and dancing with the electric steering?

what exactly would be needed for this conversion? where would i stand with the 1. gearbox- can i use the 1.2 box or will i need the 1.6 2. mounts- obv i will need the 1.6 o/s mount but other side depends on box? 3. management- will i need the 1.6 set up or can i run it on the 1.2 ecu? subframe...

i cut mine out with a diegrinder then just finished off the semi circle shape with a flap wheel in a drill

yeah it happens all the time, it usually starts off with somebody changes pads and has the same problem as you,, to combat it they wind the handbrake cable adjuster up which seems like its sorted it at the time, but wont self adjust as the pads wear and to add insult to injury the next pad...