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did you not mark it before you took the belt off, never done a clio one but whenever i have to mess with any variable cam timing units i just mark each side and put it back where it was

the small wire is the exciter wire ! starts the alternator charging at low revs and also is the signal for the light

i've got autodata on my laptop i'll have a look in a sec

never damaged one yet, takes hardly no force at all to stop it going down

called mole grips :lolup:

i lowered my non rs at home on my drive and my springs compressers etc are obviously all at work and i didn't have to much trouble undoing them fairly safely without. as for the rear, never tried on a clio but on vauxhall astras etc that use that same spring setup i can even muscle the rear...

you cant jack it on the rear beam no, if you think about it its exactly the same as trying to take the springs out with it on the floor sitting on its wheels you need it suspended from the sills so the beam hangs free

trade prices from when i got mine GSF 70 Euros 81 MPD 37 no prices for which i went for, was a proper siemens one too

I dont like you mate, lol

i've never seen another one either mate ;)

was just going to say sod paying 150 quid for 10 mins work with a hammer and lever bar :lolup:

no chance an aux belt would never throw an engine out like that, if they did the belt change one of the pulleys has spun and fooked it

If you go past again, look out for that down white hart lane, say hello :)

yep thismorning just before 8 i think it was, you were sitting in traffic on white hart lane good job you didn't see me you would have thought i was a weirdo staring :lolup:

numberplate something like that, silver 182 sware i've seen your car/name on here before, you drove past me getting in to my car on white hart lane nice motor ;)

i got a big screwdriver and poked all the wires and boxes in to the 2 gaps at the side lol

what wheel is that, i want it !

hang on, you said both headlights dont work but dipped and main beam still work, so what dosn't work? you only have dip main and sidelights

bang on, when you are building an engine to compete in a race class that allows no modifications to the engine you can build it to the very minimum tolerance allowed to a standard engine

take it to a smaller garage, we charge half hour labour (23 quid) to plug it in

Yeah? well the heads coming off in my time off anyway so im going to chuck a few cheap performance bits/modifications at it just purely to see what i can get from it think il chuck a regrind and vernier at it and i want to look in to how much i can take off the head aswell to bump compression up.

how much am i looking at to get my 1.2 16v cam reprofiled to a fast road kind of spec? and where would i go about getting it done, i suppose i could enquire at the usual cam manufacturers but they would need what specs i want surely? i know a few people on here have had it done so any info would...

cambelt is exactly the same setup as the 1.2 8v, peice of piss job just one cam pully and a waterpump to deal with dont like doing waterpumps on them though dont like fitting anything that has to seal without a gasket :lolup:

traction controll just cuts the power down to the very maximum it can give without loosing traction, feels great in big power automatics such as xkr's you floor it you get 1 wheelspin and it digs in and launches off

right well i only have 9 of these and im going to have to get some more, so could somebody give me a link to some that will do the job perfectly? the ones on rapid looked the best as it said they were ok for backlighting but they dont accept electron. about the most fiddly soldering i've done is...

cam cover gasket

from ultraleds.com ive just received them and i sware you can just about see the things they are tiny, i kind of took a guess at which ones i needed as its the only site that take the card i wanted to pay with can anybody tell me if these are in fact correct...

yep, spotted a red trophy and an orange/black creation type bodykit thing lol

no its run off a seperate belt from the crank pulley, boost is adjusted via pulley size and 20psi will require a big drop in compression and quite alot of strengthening /cooling mods

no because the 1.2 16v only has 1 cam anyway and its basically the same setup