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I know I should probably know this already but no one has actually explained me what "stage 1, stage 2 etc..." actually mean. I know the higher the stage the more work has went into it but can some one explain what work is carried out in each stages?

yip, cleaned with brake cleaner, sanded with wet and dry, everything was good, idled the car for an hour and let the paint harded (per instructions) and then built the revs up slowly to get temp up (again as per instructions)

As above^ have already used this and it flaked off within days... http://www.4wheelplay.co.uk/very-high-temperature-paint-400ml-p-25002411.html any proven products that can take the temp?

Iv been ringing around to sort my turbo out and people want over £200 to replace the oil seals, the parts alone are under £10! so im wondering if its a DIY job? Im guessing it needs balanced?

Fantastic looking car and im not being biased :P Head over to www.MG-ROVER.org, the MAF sensors get knackered and overfuel the engine, theres a better replacement. Also search for ROVER RON, he does deisel tuning for the CDTIs, a synergy from him will make a massive improvement to response...

You would need the exhaust manifold made up to fit the clio, You would need alot of samco hosing and various sizes of aluminium pipe to make connections. You would need an intercooler New ECU to take the inputs from pressure sensors and account for different ignition timings etc.. that...

Well to put a conclusion to the thread my car blew up... ....only joking, when I took the turbo off oil pissed out the turbine and compressor and the LAMBDA sensors were covered in oil. The block to exhaust mani was bone dry so im very confident that its the turbo oil seals. BUT I have...

Oil level is decreasing slightly. One of the sensory pipes does keep disconecting itself, and I also cut on of the pipes that went the air filter when I fitted the K&N as I thought its just a breather, I will get a pic of it in 2 mins. And because I have the K&N I put a small breather filter...

So if i disconect the turbo to intercooler pipe and put my hand over the outlet it should get soaked in oil? I will give that a go tomorrow. Is it possible that JUST the exhaust side seal has went or do they both go at once?

hi ditz I had the filter off on the inlet but havent disconnected the boost pipe, i will do that tomorro. I notice though a little puddle of oil on the inlet side when I took the filter off.

Hi tomtom, what do u mean by the turbo boost pipes? The little sensory pipes fail? could you elaborate please?

I did have a look and it looks coked up but as it only happens when its ran up and revving then it gets burnt off too quick for me to check.

Thanks lads, I checked the turbo for play and theres a TINY amount left, right, up and down but no play any other directions which is normal isnt it as it needs oil to float on?

Need a bit of advice please, My car has been spewing out nice blue smoke for about a week gradually getting worse. I thought HGF, valve stem oil seals or turbo. I did a compression test that showed everything normal. I looked at the plugs, again showing normal. The car doesnt spew out smoke...

yeah agree with Griff, sounds a bit too good to be true. David get a program called Prime95, the "torture" test maxes ur CPU load to see if its stable. Part of the trial and error method im affraid. You cant really "blow up" ur CPU if u dont change the supply voltage, just watch the...

Im looking for a tuning company who can offer a remap but with the choice of going from standard map to tuned map, the reason for this is because my car isnt fitted with a knock sensor so to use higher octane fuel i need it remapped, if im in a situation where i cant get higher octane fuel then...

With black wheels and the CS.net insignia in the rear windows, spotted at about 11pm on sat night

is 9.2 : 1 considered high?

Will advanced ignition timings and higher octane fuel improve average MPG?

damn i knew i should have patented it! :rasp:

well its just a bit of bent pipe welded to a backbox if ur wanting a straight through exhaust, the machinery to bend the pipe (mandrel) is what u need.

see right iv came up with something, i dont know if its already been done but a section of "iris'" in ur exhaust. Like on stargate, a metal iris that u can open to unrestrict the exhaust = performance but comes with noise, and close it slightly to reduce noise for road use. An adjustible baffle...

im not talking about the clio mate ;) im talking about my rov....er i mean MG lol :clown:

i have a 48mm throttle body fitted to my engine, would getting a 52mm throttle body ad a few more horses or f**k anything up with fueling or the engine map

I should imagine your engine light will come on to tell you the LAMBDA isnt correct, you can get a remap to sort this out or a MIL Engine Light Eliminator which is a small module that replicates the LAMBDA sensors signal.

yeah theres a guarentee but i wanted some advice before i give them a call, if im entitled and they say no i can use threat of legal action etc....

Just spent £570 on a new exhaust for my ZT, CAT back system with de-cat pipe. I asked for flanges to be welded on to the cat and de-cat pipe so it was just a matter of unbolting the flanges and swapping them. They said they didnt have the flanges in stock and will use clamps, when i came to fit...

How can this be done without making it bobble or look s**t?

The starter motor on first kick can draw up to 80A, as the starter motor turns the current it draws considerably decreases but anything less than 100A would just trigger the breaker so you would have to keep reseting it.

looks nice, bit pricey but if its worth it then i supose i could shell out, see how much he will quote for the ZT