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172 Cup Racecar.

You will need to find one from around your way and give them a call,we didn't have to do this as ours had an OMP badge on it.
We just had it scrutineered early to make sure everything was alright.
You will need to get your cage checked over though.
 
Try this guy,he will be able to tell who can do it etc.
Mr R Aliperti
07816 135238
email robbo4x4@ymail.com

Got him out of the blue book,I think he is a Chief scrutineer and he is from Chertsey Surrey,so not to far from you.
If he cannot do it,he should be able to put you in contact with someone.
Just explain what you need.
 
So a little bit of an update, with good and bad :( news...

So all the polycarb windows are in and drivers seat in, actually starting to look like a car again! :)

However I finished all the loom and was mega carefu lwith it but it seems now once we've plugged it in that from the OBD port we cant even get a signal from the ecu, its seems that what I heard about the britle loom was true.... It's been moved quite a bit, not by me but my Dad in his infinite wisdom and he's a heavy handed bugger! LOL All I was getting was the Immobiliser light staying on and then when we plugged it into Renault CLIP it wasnt getting any signal from basically anything!

So it seems for the time being things are taking a step forward and two steps back, lets hope that its just the loom thats fudged also and not the ECU/UCH!

Cheers
Nick
 
Oh bu**er! I ended up completely rewired my car as the Renault looms were nackered! But I'm running an OMEX and you'd have to run a standalone ecu to ditch all your standard looms. I have a UCH for a 182 and my standard ecu if you need them.
 
is there any reason for the heater matrix element thingy in there??

are you using it to heat the car??
 
Think about it very carefully Nick,heater left in helps engine cooling and you will get stone chips like you will not believe.
Ours has gone already this year!Standard screen £120,bet a heated screen is more than that.
 
can just the element be left in alone to heat the car??

i removed all the heaters when stripping mine out, and even after sealing all the holes up, it is still very cold!!
due to lack of a trailer i have to drive it too and from places and would love it to be a touch warmer!! :(
 
Personally id also put the heater back in, i can imagine a heated screen being great, but it doesnt demist ure side windows in the rain ...

We also have a spare uch/lockset etc if u need it. Not sure about loom, ask mike.
 
Dave I think the heated screen does get rid of the mist on the inside of the screen.

If you still want to get rid of the heater matrix and bits then look into small electric heaters for the screen.

Tony is right about the heater helping the engine cool down but if you had your fan on a toggle switch then you can just flick it on after you've gone over the finish line and by the time you've got back to the pits and parked up the engine should be at a cooler temp.
 
As Tony said our screen is damaged beyond repair now so you need to budget for a replacement every year. lost count the number of times weve had stone chips repiaired. Heated screen on my works van stopped working properly after a big hit by a stone.

Much more prone to stone chips/damage racing than normal road use, theres a lot more gravel around, speeds are higher and your closer to other cars
 
Tony Hunter said:
Think about it very carefully Nick,heater left in helps engine cooling and you will get stone chips like you will not believe.
Ours has gone already this year!Standard screen £120,bet a heated screen is more than that.
Click to expand...

Sir_Dave said:
Personally id also put the heater back in, i can imagine a heated screen being great, but it doesnt demist ure side windows in the rain ...

We also have a spare uch/lockset etc if u need it. Not sure about loom, ask mike.
Click to expand...

Jay Payne said:
As Tony said our screen is damaged beyond repair now so you need to budget for a replacement every year. lost count the number of times weve had stone chips repiaired. Heated screen on my works van stopped working properly after a big hit by a stone.

Much more prone to stone chips/damage racing than normal road use, theres a lot more gravel around, speeds are higher and your closer to other cars
Click to expand...

Tony + Jay, I completely know where your coming from. TBH for the time being its going to be the last thing on my mind as I need to get the car running as the loom problem has been a real kick in the b****cks! Going to try and source a good condition (fingers crossed) interior and just bolt it in and see how things go, if things work then happy days however if its the other side of the coin then racing will be put on hold considerably longer...

I guess it would be nice to sack all the heater box etc off as I can make a few quid from selling it and saving a bit of weight but £300 odd a season is probably uneeded but could potentially be budgeted. Does having the heater matrix in really going to make that much of a difference in cooling? Me not having a clue about that sort of thing i'm always happy to be put right! lol

Dave, loom has to be out of a 172 Cup im afraid matey as all the variations on Mk2 Clios are different :( But cheers for the offer anyways.

Cheers
Nick
 
I suppose if your going to keep your HUGE standard rad then cooling is probably not going to be an issue.

If you have a spare £40 in your budget to down size the rad then you shoukd do it as you do save quite a bit of weight doing so.
 
interesting talk on the heated screen,
keeping an eye on this as thats the way i was going, then again mines not being built to race... well not in a series anyways
 
These things always seem a good idea,but are not always practical in the real light of day,unless of course you have such a budget that these thing don't matter.
 
We'll obviously be the ones to keep an eye on in regards to the heated screen. We realise that it's going to be peppered. That's par for the course, but we've been told it's a tough screen that won't be killed by stones alone. Even big ones.
If we are proven wrong then so be it but it's worth a crack (excuse the pun ;) )
 
A car had gone off at Coppice at Donington,and when he came back on he left a trail of gravel all down the back straight,you know what speeds we get up to down there,it was like being shot at with a 12 bore.
 
Bod 182 said:
As long as the cage complies to race regulations i know someone who had a cage fabricated by a so called motorsport development firm and with no certficate or paperwork had to be ripped out and done to regulations of the series he was racing in.
Click to expand...

Exactly!! The paperwork I got with mine is 5 pages and has drawings and everything, also has serial numbers and MSA reg numbers too. I did'nt want to risk it. I was told by a motorsport company and I quote "You wont need paperwork you just need to make the cage to the FIA specs and you will be fine" I rang the organisers of Dubai 24 hour and they told me yes you def will need FIA paperwork or you will fail scrut! Can you imagine going all that way and being told to go home :(
 
Hi nice thread. I do rallying with a Clio for the past 8yrs and we have gone through 2 heated screans, they work ok for about half a year and then start to go wrong. I have got a water heater fan of ebay, seams good upto now.
 
So it seems things have gone pete tong....

Got a complete untouched interior loom off ebay to try and see if it fixed the problems with the loom I put back in. Seems that it is something much more than the loom thats gone wrong at one point or another, all I got was the same immobiliser fault and when plugged into Fastchip and genuine Renault CLIP software it couldn't even read the ECU :(

Not sure if it related in some way or another but when I had my old Mk1 16v I disconnected the battery and ECU for over a month, then it never started again. Sold it to a mate who looked into it and he had to disable the immobiliser some how and unlock the ECU, not sure if its that easy with the Mk2's though.

So racing has been kicked into touch for the time being, for the money spent putting a new standard ECU + calibration etc etc I may as well go aftermarket so that will take a while to save up and get :(
 
Exactly what happened to us when we started dicking with it. Thats why we went to EC1. Told you to leave it alone for now
 
Jay Payne said:
Exactly what happened to us when we started dicking with it. Thats why we went to EC1. Told you to leave it alone for now
Click to expand...

Yeah I know Jay, when being told that it works, people have done before and told what to do and dont do it gives you confidence that it'll work... Bit of a bummer but i'll still eventually race, even if all you other guys that are currently/going racing have stopped!
 
Oh man that's a right poop. Ditch all the Renault sh"t and rewire the whole car, it's soooon easy it's unreal! Obviously the biggest cost is in the new (aftermarket) ecu & map, but it's deffently the best way to go.
 
Is it the ignition part of the loom you changed Nick? Is it cranking? Are relays engaging etc? Pump priming?
 
Jonny1*2 said:
Is it the ignition part of the loom you changed Nick? Is it cranking? Are relays engaging etc? Pump priming?
Click to expand...

I haven't touched the any of the loom regarding the ignition side of things, tbh when we plugged it on we didn't try cranking it as James said the immobiliser light was on so cranking it over wouldn't make a difference.

Relays from what I can tell were alright, not sure on the fuel pump though.

Nick
 
:dapprove:

Exactly why i didnt touch the loom in the saxo tbh Nick, just hid it all instead.

Would the entire ecu/UCH/keys/immobiliser setup from a 182 not work, say if you swopped absolutely everything over?
 
just read the whole thread, cars looking good mate. bit of a bummer with the loom though, hope you get it sorted.
 
Nick172Cup said:
I haven't touched the any of the loom regarding the ignition side of things, tbh when we plugged it on we didn't try cranking it as James said the immobiliser light was on so cranking it over wouldn't make a difference.

Relays from what I can tell were alright, not sure on the fuel pump though.

Nick
Click to expand...

So you've not touched the engine loom/ignition loom at all? manipulated it much etc? Is the ECU getting power? Have you tried bumping it (starter has a back feed to the immobiliser which might be causing the solid light). Earths as well. Fuel pump you should hear priming when key is turned to position 2.
 
Jonny1*2 said:
So you've not touched the engine loom/ignition loom at all? manipulated it much etc? Is the ECU getting power? Have you tried bumping it (starter has a back feed to the immobiliser which might be causing the solid light). Earths as well. Fuel pump you should hear priming when key is turned to position 2.
Click to expand...

Havent touched it at all matey, I havent tried bumping the car either as yet and with regards to the ECU we plugged it into Renault CLIP as said and it didnt even read that the ECU was there. Its out of my depth checking power feeds to stuff also, but will ask a few friends to see if they can have a little look.

Will double check all the earths, as said cant remember if the fuel pump was priming or not. Works just got mega busy atm so will have a look at it within the next couple of weeks.

Sir_Dave said:
Daft suggesiton, but have you checked the battery is holding a full charge?

Iirc, when the 1st Trophy died, we thought it was the UCH, rumour has it, i had no power.
Click to expand...

Alright matey, we had the big battery out of the car previously as the small Redtop battery was dead. Still didnt work so unless that one was almost out of juice think its more than the battery thats the problem, will check it again though!

Tony Hunter said:
Come on Nick,chin up.
Click to expand...

Aye chins up Tony, not going to let it get to me too much, hopefully I can get something sorted soon though!

Also the 'Blue Book' turned up today also, cheers again for it! :)
 
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