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I've had a UBER COOL custom short water radiator made up too in brass/copper! 260high 53mm deep and 540mm wide..In matt balck with a pacet fan! Could of had it in alloy for 35% more but its just not worth it..the guy said you can't repair alloy and its soft! So if you get a leaking tube its new rad time! Copper/brass is repairable!
Oh its sooo sexy! Pics on tuesday of that!
I've had a UBER COOL custom short water radiator made up too in brass/copper! 260high 53mm deep and 540mm wide..In matt balck with a pacet fan! Could of had it in alloy for 35% more but its just not worth it..the guy said you can't repair alloy and its soft! So if you get a leaking tube its new rad time! Copper/brass is repairable!
Oh its sooo sexy! Pics on tuesday of that!
M
mini-valver
Where was my PM re. prices, you queer!
F4R'd ITB'd '92 cup racer
thats the budget out the window then! :rasp:
Just bought this filter too!
Box style ITG, Managed to increase the internal high of the pipercross box from 65mm to 100mm with this one
Fark! that filter wont fit unless i buy a JC50 baseplate then butcher it!
FFS!
RS6+ & 40d MSport X5
are the seats and Leda's new?about 3 k
you owe me a grand aswell!
you wish!
ITB'd MK1
I want these samcos
LOL, we have our trailer key on a sample piece of that. I like
There’s a few smudges on the paint from the cardboard (must of been still tacky when it was packed) I've called him and he said bring it back and he will sort it asap (just needs sanding in a few places and re painting )
As you can see the old rad was a f**king state lol, I mean it was literally falling apart :/ Plus it was leaning forward on one bracket and the top of it was fouling on the air filter (It cut though it, so had to buy a new one)
The old rad also seemed to be blowing hot air into 3&4 trumpet too!
The old size core was 410 high x 500 wide and 24mm deep
New rad is 260 high x 540 wide x 53mm deep! So it is a lot more efficient too! the mounting pins are still in the same place for the bottom, The top has two brackets which fit to the slam panel. Its construction is copper core and brass tanks, it is a good conductor of heat and is lighter than the OEM rad but heavier than alloy, copper cores are repairable unlike ally though! One stone in a ally rad and if it leaks its new rad time!
iphone pics sorry,
Width against old rad
Hight against old rad
Core width
General pics
I've called him and he said bring it back and he will sort it asap (just needs sanding in a few places and re painting )As you can see the old rad was a f**king state lol, I mean it was literally falling apart :/ Plus it was leaning forward on one bracket and the top of it was fouling on the air filter (It cut though it, so had to buy a new one)
The old rad also seemed to be blowing hot air into 3&4 trumpet too!
The old size core was 410 high x 500 wide and 24mm deep
New rad is 260 high x 540 wide x 53mm deep! So it is a lot more efficient too! the mounting pins are still in the same place for the bottom, The top has two brackets which fit to the slam panel. Its construction is copper core and brass tanks, it is a good conductor of heat and is lighter than the OEM rad but heavier than alloy, copper cores are repairable unlike ally though! One stone in a ally rad and if it leaks its new rad time!
iphone pics sorry,
Width against old rad
Hight against old rad
Core width
General pics
Ben_p motorsport Group Z engine mount.
Take one 172 engine mount (almost new, cheers geesus69)
Some u-POL Tiger Seal
Co-op rubber gloves
Put the mount in a vice and crush the jaw untill the sides are firm up against the rubber blocks (dont crush it too far so you deform the inner steel plate)
Take the mount apart and degrease - clean so the tiger seal sticks
Re assemble the mount and fill the lower part of the mount with tiger seal
find a socket that fits over the main bolt and holds inner mounts plate to the base (where it would be if the engine was sat on it) and secure with a m10 bolt!
Fill the rest of the mount with tiger seal! (dont fill the back as the mount sits across it) Then smooth off with a cut up credit card and leave to dry for around 1 week!
It looks a tad messy there but you dont see half of it and I plan to sand any parts off that shouldn't be there and re-spray the mount in black!
!
Take one 172 engine mount (almost new, cheers geesus69)
Some u-POL Tiger Seal
Co-op rubber gloves
Put the mount in a vice and crush the jaw untill the sides are firm up against the rubber blocks (dont crush it too far so you deform the inner steel plate)
Take the mount apart and degrease - clean so the tiger seal sticks
Re assemble the mount and fill the lower part of the mount with tiger seal
find a socket that fits over the main bolt and holds inner mounts plate to the base (where it would be if the engine was sat on it) and secure with a m10 bolt!
Fill the rest of the mount with tiger seal! (dont fill the back as the mount sits across it) Then smooth off with a cut up credit card and leave to dry for around 1 week!
It looks a tad messy there but you dont see half of it and I plan to sand any parts off that shouldn't be there and re-spray the mount in black!
!
