TVR Cerbera
2.28 degrees neg camber and 0.07 degrees toe out to be exact, lol
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TVR Cerbera
You know i will help anytime i can, gotto keep you sweet so i can get a 'cheap' respray sometime, lol
in monaco, rather than Mondial?!
ValverInBits
did you make this camber tool?
TVR Cerbera
TVR Cerbera
I did, does front and rear camber, front and rear toe, all at the same time. takes some setting up and is purely functional and not at all pretty, but seems to work ok.
Mk1 F4R
Few pics from Oulton Park on the 28.04.2010
Mk1 F4R
No worries mate, im not the best but im learning... i think lol :rasp:
Cheers for lending us the 300mm lens
Cheers for lending us the 300mm lens
TVR Cerbera
Nice pics, how was the handling?
Good, I played about with the front damper settings a bit, could do with possibly stiffening the rears up before the next outing too, it's a bit of a ballache trackside. It could do with a few wheel bearings too, so the tracking and camber's now a fair way out because of it! Promising on the whole though and certainly an improvement
I thought they were good, but not particularly amazing. I played with the pressures a bit and ended up on 29/27 when warm which seemed about right. Certainly better than T1R that I usually use (and ran on the back), but not enough better to warrant twice the cost IMO. They've worn a fair amount too. I'd guess that I'll get another day out of them and they'll about be on the legal limit after that, so not great on that front.
Jamie86
ClioSport Club Member
RS175,595,205gti,172
Cool useful to hear feedback as I would of used them for pretty much track only and the price was massively appealing..
So you going to be going back to T1R's all round then?
I was trying to get part worn 888's or equivilent but might just end up settling with T1R's at this rate then
If I don't find anything else suitable then yeah probably. I know there are people on here who don't rate T1R, but on the other hand I know plenty who do. I ran them exclusively all of last year without any probs and will happily run them again for the sake of £28 a corner.
I've a pair of Dunlop slicks I need to give a try too
I've a pair of Dunlop slicks I need to give a try too
Jamie86
ClioSport Club Member
RS175,595,205gti,172
If I don't find anything else suitable then yeah probably. I know there are people on here who don't rate T1R, but on the other hand I know plenty who do. I ran them exclusively all of last year without any probs and will happily run them again for the sake of £28 a corner.
I've a pair of Dunlop slicks I need to give a try too
Yeah I dont mind them when you look at them for cost versus how much time you can save with "proper" tyres.. is only track days afterall
I use T1-R's on my civic on the road, and on the clio for road rallys and i wont use anything else, as i find them superb,especialy in the wet, and the cost of them for how they grip i regard them as free lol.
I use a mixture of dunlop and hankook slicks/inters/wets on stage rallys which are obviously hugely better, but they are a proper competition tyre and priced accordingly...,unfortunatly.
I use a mixture of dunlop and hankook slicks/inters/wets on stage rallys which are obviously hugely better, but they are a proper competition tyre and priced accordingly...,unfortunatly.
your a fool for not bring your slicks chris!!
smart tool cabinets
are you a mechanic by day then?
Not really. I'm on the spanners all day but nothing to do with cars!
Not much to catch up on then :star:
1.4 phase 1
Nah not to much, shame my college computer wont show the pics would help if i could see them lol.
i
want
slicks
want
slicks
A slight issue which I found at Oulton the other week:
To run the 172 front hubs, the (Williams fitment) coilover holes need enlarging from 12 to 14mm to accept the 172 shock>hub bolts as the Mk1's use a smaller bolt. f0xy has been running his like this for over a year now without fault, so he had my holes machined by the same chap that did his. Fitted perfectly when I originally fitted them so thought no more of it.
Throughout the day at Oulton I seemed to gain more camber on one side. Now I knew my bearing on that corner was about shot, so I thought this might have had something to do with it. Anyway, not wanting to waste the day I carried on regardless, lol.
When i went to take the hubs off to change bearings, the problem became obvious. The holes in the coilover had enlarged and ovalled. Whether this is down to FK using monkey metal, the holes now being too big (as above, EXACTLY the same as Jord has run for a year), or the mega grip my Mk1 produces (), I don't know.
Anyway, I set about rectifying this and strengthening the mounting plates. I have about 6/7mm spare thread on the 172 bolts so I can get away with adding 3mm thickness to each side. Found a fair size offcut at work and set about making something suitable. So far I've managed the following, just 1 out of 4 done so far. Only one shock seems to have enlarged, the other is as I put it on...? Anyway, I'll do both shocks to hopefully eliminate any problems in the future.
As you'll be able to see also, the ABS sensor thing at the top of the shock (with tapped hole in) isn't welded to the side plates as standard. Why this is I'm not sure, as it'd strengthen them up no end. So i tied that in too while I was at it.
Comments/suggestions welcome as ever
To run the 172 front hubs, the (Williams fitment) coilover holes need enlarging from 12 to 14mm to accept the 172 shock>hub bolts as the Mk1's use a smaller bolt. f0xy has been running his like this for over a year now without fault, so he had my holes machined by the same chap that did his. Fitted perfectly when I originally fitted them so thought no more of it.
Throughout the day at Oulton I seemed to gain more camber on one side. Now I knew my bearing on that corner was about shot, so I thought this might have had something to do with it. Anyway, not wanting to waste the day I carried on regardless, lol.
When i went to take the hubs off to change bearings, the problem became obvious. The holes in the coilover had enlarged and ovalled. Whether this is down to FK using monkey metal, the holes now being too big (as above, EXACTLY the same as Jord has run for a year), or the mega grip my Mk1 produces (
), I don't know.Anyway, I set about rectifying this and strengthening the mounting plates. I have about 6/7mm spare thread on the 172 bolts so I can get away with adding 3mm thickness to each side. Found a fair size offcut at work and set about making something suitable. So far I've managed the following, just 1 out of 4 done so far. Only one shock seems to have enlarged, the other is as I put it on...? Anyway, I'll do both shocks to hopefully eliminate any problems in the future.
As you'll be able to see also, the ABS sensor thing at the top of the shock (with tapped hole in) isn't welded to the side plates as standard. Why this is I'm not sure, as it'd strengthen them up no end. So i tied that in too while I was at it.
Comments/suggestions welcome as ever
ValverInBits
My first thought is that it would have something to do with how tight you've done the bolts up. Really tight>lots of friction>less direct shear load or looser>bit of movement allowed>excessive force concentrated on the hole circumference
What material is that coilover tube made from? Is it just a zinc coating or something?
What material is that coilover tube made from? Is it just a zinc coating or something?
Yeah they are just plated/coated, eventually comes off and goes crusty (over the past year on mine)...
I have always ran the coilovers, so I just measured the width of the coilover and machined the hub down to that which is a very tight fit on mine just how I wanted it...
Chris originally ground his shocks down to the width of the Billies he had on last year, so there may be a different dimension somewhere - so as its been tightened the sides have squashed inwards
I have always ran the coilovers, so I just measured the width of the coilover and machined the hub down to that which is a very tight fit on mine just how I wanted it...
Chris originally ground his shocks down to the width of the Billies he had on last year, so there may be a different dimension somewhere - so as its been tightened the sides have squashed inwards
Sunflower & Golf Mk6 BMT
They are just made from zinc plated steel. The zinc plating corrodes off after a while so might be worth sealing them with something if you want them to last longer.
I think this has happened because you tried to field mod them and use them for something their not designed to do, it wont be because of the spec of the metal.
Will 172 coil overs not fit now you have 172 running gear?
I think this has happened because you tried to field mod them and use them for something their not designed to do, it wont be because of the spec of the metal.
Will 172 coil overs not fit now you have 172 running gear?
They're too tall IIRC
I modded mine (machined hubs down and made the holes 0.5mm larger) in October 2008, covered 20k and alot of trackdays and they are still as they were - same coilovers, same setup, never had an issue like this...
The only difference is - I milled my hubs down on a milling machine, to an accurate figure (.5mm) so it was a perfect match for my coilover - whereas Chris used a grinder and matched it to his old 'standard style' Billies...which could well be different to the FK's, or his hubs are just not accurate enough. It would explain the sides squashing in under tightening (i.e. the hub being too narrow)
M
mini-valver
LF??
The only problem you may have now is by welding on the shock tube, you're getting the actual damper internals SUPER hot and could have cooked the oil, melted a seal/O-ring etc etc. May be ok but you never know!
The only problem you may have now is by welding on the shock tube, you're getting the actual damper internals SUPER hot and could have cooked the oil, melted a seal/O-ring etc etc. May be ok but you never know!
Right front.
The heat did cross my mind, and I was going to remove the insert from the tube all before welding, but all the welding I did was additions to the mounting points and not directly onto the tube itself. Also let it completely cool between each weld so I didn't generate too much heat.
The heat did cross my mind, and I was going to remove the insert from the tube all before welding, but all the welding I did was additions to the mounting points and not directly onto the tube itself. Also let it completely cool between each weld so I didn't generate too much heat.
I don't think it would. It's a minimal amount, so I'm fairly sure it's got to be down to enlarging the holes and leaving a very small amount of material to the outside of the holes.
I wasnt on about the holes enlarging, i was on about the deformation of the mounts - i.e. closing/squashing together
