Adeys F4RT Twingo GT

[Adey.]

On the backwards gear shifter thing it looks like I can just unpin the selector off the box and refit a correct on from a Twingo or possibly Clio mk3 dci. As long as it comes from a car with a floor mounted shifter it should be fine where as I think my box came from a car with a dash mounted shifter. The arms are on the opposite side between the 2 boxes.

Not much else can be done until the next wave of parts arrive so I've started refitting trim, the above engine/windscreen stuff is back on along with the wipers. I'm collecting the new Rad on Monday so I can fully refit the front slam panel afterwards.

 

[Adey.]

A friend sorted me with some more bits today, namely a forge motorsport boost pipe. So made a start on the cold side boost pipework using the chopped up Forge pipe, I'm waiting on getting my Throttle body back which I'm having welded up with a bit of ali. Standard has a plastic pipe bolted to it but it has a 30mm bore so didn't want to use it. Once that's here I can finish that side up. I've extended the wiring for the map and temp sensor to reach the pipe work using the laguna loom. I think I want to try a megane 225 hot side pipe off the turbo if anyone has a cheap one kicking about? might look a little neater if I can get the boost run to swing around the alternator.

 

[Adey.]

So the plan this week is to test drive the car for a few miles (with no exhaust) No load and very partial throttle so the ecu can try and target lambda. So new rad fitted up curtesy of @RustyMojo who had a spare in his garage that he will probably need after selling it on So that was fitted, system bled up and slam panel fully refitted, fingers crossed for the final time. I also picked up my throttle body from Zurawski Motorsport where they welded on a ali pipe so I can actually pipe everything up (i used an old R5 GTT dump valve take off) This was abit scary as I had to fully strip down the throttle body so nothing got cooked when welding and then reassemble it today. All seem fine though but ill know more when I run the car up. Nick Kettle is sending me a meg 225 hot side boost pipe which if I can use will free up a little space by the radiator which is needed. Everything is getting tight in there now and there's still more to get in 🤦‍♂️ Thanks for looking in

 

[RustyMojo]

Nice to meet you earlier mate! The dope is super cool! Looking forward to seeing this one dyno’d up and running sweet!

 

[Adey.]

Nice to meet you earlier mate! The dope is super cool! Looking forward to seeing this one dyno’d up and running sweet!

Cheers man you too. The dope did about 50 miles today as I detoured to Ledbury on the way home. Thanks for sorting me the rad

 

[Adey.]

Cold side wrapped up though I need to get an intake temperature sensor to fully complete it. Rigged up with spares as normal but fits nicely now. Also popped down to my mate at forge motorsport and grabbed a blanking plate (for that cho cho cho flutter noise) and hose to use as a turbo intake. All in and the headlights fully fitted. Just the hot side boost pipework to sort once the megane pipe arrives 👍🏻

 

[JohnRogers]

Cant wait to see this finished, driveway builds are the best builds!

 

[Adey.]

Cant wait to see this finished, driveway builds are the best builds!

The older I get the more I hate it lol

I received a miltek front pipe from @Brigsy today, looks just the ticket but it wont fit past the subframe, so I need to create 10mm of space or drop the subframe to fit it. Dropping the subframe would be nicer but i don't want to have to do that if i need to remove the exhaust..... hammer time?.....

 

[Brigsy]

Loosen subframe bolts, drop the back down slightly and refit. Ten mins extra work do it right

 

[Adey.]

Ten min my ass! lol well loosening the subframe wasn't the issue, the 3 inch front pipe is simply too big to fit over the twingo subframe. Some manipulation to the pipe now has it in place but it's very very close and after swearing loads at fitting it it will probably need some more manipulation or just plain remaking. That said the car now has a full miltek 3inch (just over 2.75id bar where its been smashed lol ) downpipe and front pipe thanks to @Brigsy selling me his cast offs 👍🏻cheers buddy. I also added a support brace from the manifold to try and take some strain and help it not crack or fracture again.

 

[Adey.]

Them red marks all over the heat shield









that's my blood, this car keeps hurting me


In other news I have enough bits to make the rest of the exhaust up that's next weeks job

 

[Brigsy]

Looks ok, get some stiff engine mounts on will be sound

 

[Adey.]

Looks ok, get some stiff engine mounts on will be sound

powerflex dogbone with a PMT reinforced upper engine mount will swap in some of the vibratechnic type in the future

 

[Adey.]

Take one clio exhaust that kind of fits, make up a 2.5inch exhaust to replace it using plenty of scrap bits and bish bash bosh one PMT exhaust that will do for now. The back box does poke out a little too much but for something made from scrap itll do. Also @Nick Kettle came in with a meg 225 boost pipe which fits very well with my fmic, so that, bar a temperature sensor is all done. Big thanks So not much else to do, front end back on and a few hangers for the exhaust and itll be ready to test drive.

Oh and it makes the right noises and the exhaust isnt overly loud (though blowing as it has no clamps on at the moment )

 

[Adey.]

Front end back on and i gave it a quick fairy liquid bath to clear off some of the dust from the building site. Back to looking like a car again.

 

[Adey.]

Kind of big update, First (albeit short) drive done!

So I started the day with a quick trip to the scrap yard, I was in need of an air temp sensor, got 3 so I have some spares I found a nice exhaust rubber so that was also taken along with the fuel level sensor from a Twingo. This was to replace the bodge I did a few years back. Sometimes the tank would give you decent warning of been empty and others not. What I did was plastic weld the Twingo level sensor to the Clio housing at roughly the correct height. Seems to work. 5ltrs in there shows red add 10ltrs on top and it shows a few bars Next was finish off the exhaust. PMT welded the hangers in the correct place, @Flook sorted me out with a few clamps from GSF and bobs your uncle one 2,75 dp/front pipe to 2.5mid to 2.25inch backbox exhaust surprisingly quiet though it sits abit low in the middle for my crappy driveway. The Front pipe also needs revisiting as its tapping the subframe. Any way with that all done I wanted to pump the tires up and add some more fuel so gave it ago. All seems good bar wheels pointing all over the shop and it drives ok considering its on a GT map so should be fine for doing some miles. The clutch release bearing is making a bit of a noise too.... but I'm happy, very happy in fact. Full engine conversion in and drivable in a shave over 2 months built from spare parts, favours and no money BIG BIG thank you to all those who have given advice, spares or cheap parts from their own stash as without you I wouldn't of gotten this far. I have recorded the first drive and will upload it shortly after I figure out how to edit phone videos. I don't have a gopro so used my phone in the passenger headrest . Next up is putting some miles on it, fixing everything that goes wrong and then getting back to work so I can fund mapping

 

[VenomUK]

I forgot to tell you there was a silver twingo in bucklands 🤦‍♂️

 

[Adey.]

I forgot to tell you there was a silver twingo in bucklands 🤦‍♂️

Don't worry I found it lol. A fair few people let me know actually, sad life I lead where the texts I get are what's in the scrap yard............

 

[RustyMojo]

We could do with a local bucko scrap alert thread or group! For us Gloucestershire folk!

 

[Adey.]

good shout

 

[Adey.]

Here we go, its boring and recorded on my phone, plus I don't normally talk to cameras

 

[Adey.]

So I was a little bored this morning and went through my notes of cost so far......

Total outlay (still more to pay for yet) £709.23 of which there was £114 for engine collection/delivery as I couldn't leave the house. I've also sold some some bits off the Twingo along the way totalling £581

So grand total of cost so far stands at £128.23 😲🤯😂😂

Obviously there is no charge for time and labour which would be huge and if you were buying every part I have had from scrap piles the cost would be loads higher but its pretty amazing what you can do when being super frugal. Mapping needs booking and paying for and I want to do a full fluid change and service again (engine, gearbox and brakes). There's probably a few little things I've missed off but have tried to keep account of it all. Again big thanks to those who have raided parts bins and spares for me


The biggest saving was winning the engine on ebay, basically everything bar the gearbox for £100 if I hadn't of bagged that this would still have the little engine in it

 

[VenomUK]

Good shout on a bucko post! Even a little group chat if people wanted in on it?

I was looking at engines and keeping my eye out for a twingo now because I fancy building one of these now

@Adeyspec where are you taking it for a remap?

 

[Adey.]

Chris at EFI parts. he's done this job before and I wouldn't trust anyone else tbh

 

[-Jamie-]

Chris at EFI parts. he's done this job before and I wouldn't trust anyone else tbh

He's the only guy to take a Renaultsport to in thr country imo

 

[VenomUK]

He's the only guy to take a Renaultsport to in thr country imo

That's what I thought, I need to trailer the Clio up when it's ready.

 

[JohnRogers]

Now just to get rid of that 1.1T Sticker from the boot

 

[Adey.]

Now just to get rid of that 1.1T Sticker from the boot

Nah that's definitely staying. Loads funnier when I start handing out gaps 😆

 

[Adey.]

Mapping booked in for Sat 15th May so ive got some time to road test and fix any issues with it.

Today I did the unthinkable, some thing that made me physically sick. I raised my suspension! I made it ok by tweaking the Dope a little lower though so life is still balanced lol

I kind of decided that rather than just go for the low look, with it now potentially having a decent amount of go I want it to handle a bit better too (wasn't really bad before tbh) Though the wishbone angles were high and it had too much rake. How I've gone about it as a rough starting point is to replicate the front rear difference of a Twingo rs133 cup but lower by 32mm (similar to running with H&R springs). By finding the factory measurements I was able to measure my own car at the same points and go from there. I've ended up with the rear being 9mm higher and the front about 30mm up so it retains the factory front to back difference. This should be, in my mind a very good starting point to tweak from considering the rs133 handles quite well. In the future I want to add a PMS rear arb and get it properly corner weighted. It wont look as good in my opinion but should make a huge difference to how it handles. Kind of a sensible modification/tweak. Not got any pics yet as one wheel is still off, one of the screws rounded off in the spring seat/locking collars.

 

[Adey.]

Back on all 4. Looks like a 4x4 😭 will take it for a spin tomorrow hopefully, let the suspension resettle then check it all again and reset it a little closer again👍🏻

 

[Krarl]

I was hoping to see a proper lifted Twingo but that still looks like a lowered Twingo😂

 

[Adey.]

That's in the air man! Might as well be a donk or dakar racer

 

[Twingo 1??]

Looks ok tbh. I am at EFI 2 weeks before you for my mapping session. If you ever need anything measuring off a 133 let me know as I am more than happy to help you out if you need it.

 

[Adey.]

Awesome stuff cheers man. I'm looking forward to what Chris can do with yours 👍🏻

 

[Adey.]

😭

Took it for a quick bounce around and the measured up, needed raise the front a touch more to get within the allowable for front to back difference but easily done quickly off a trolley jack. Has some gap now but should actually make it handle better 🤞🏻 its about as close as I can get it on the path and drive. If I had a decent flat floor I think I'd have a go setting it up with a string line just for something to do. Would be a nice skill to learn I think. Anyway here she is.

 

[Mavez]

Looks ace fella! Can't wait to see some vids when it has been mapped.

 

[Adey.]

A mate was taking the mick that I hadn't actually revved the engine out yet to test it. No load at idle but it didn't explode so that's good. Have a little chavtastic limiter bash Nice and track friendly.

 

[Adey.]

A few people have asked me if the cruise control buttons on my meg 250 rs wheel work. Well they didn't, but now they do. Though my car isn't wired for cruise control I do intend to add it and have it working so I set about getting the wheel wired up. Fairly simple to do as I'd already bought a cruise squib so it was a case of just joining some wires and making sure it works. I also added some wiring tails to the cabin side of the squib so I could connect them up at a later date.

 

[Adey.]

Managed to bag some worn out but still super cool pedals for the Twingo. They were an optional extra in back in the day and I nearly got a set in 2007 (cant remember why I didn't in the end though). Totally forgot about them until someone on FB was saying they didn't want them and wanted to replace them with some normal rubber pedals. Quick swap via post, quick scrub and now I have some. I will call Renault in the week and see if there's any availability still but not hopeful. They have that old PlayStation feel to them

Also on previous advice I have whipped the injectors out and sent them off for cleaning and flow matching, should be ready within the week, hopefully ensuring each cylinder is being fed the same amount of fuel and making things run smoother when it comes to mapping.

 

[Twingo 1??]

Been looking for ages for a set of them pedals!