Attemping boosted ph1

[danh90]

alright i might look at that then.. just undone everything and about to take the engine out..

The banging i mentioned abit ago when turning when ive removed the pass driveshaft theres grease all over around the cv boot imagine thats the problem

 

[danh90]

Things are moving on (slowly) engine out

Now there was this manifold that has been made and was fitted on the cup engine

looks like its been ground out

Also the head on the other engine had been ground out aswell now would the engine be any better with this manifold on or standard?


Managed to snap the engine mount (rubber) as well getting the engine out and I did undo it. Must of just move too much forward when lifting was hard guiding it on my own

 

[Chip-mk1]

No one is going to be able to give you a definitive answer if the manifold is any good or not, it LOOKS like it is, but none of us have flow tested it etc as its home made so no one will be able to say for certain.
Personally though I would use it even if just for reasons like its lighter and it allows access to the plugs.

 

[dmallett]

Im with chip on that.

If it is restrictive (which i doubt it would be any down grade on the standard inlet) it surely shouldnt make much difference? Plus its easier maintenance wise

 

[danh90]

Suppose your right no one would know,, ill just give it a whirl like you say easier to get to plugs ect.. Just fitting the turbo manifold and turbo at the min

 

[Chip-mk1]

Im with chip on that.

If it is restrictive (which i doubt it would be any down grade on the standard inlet) it surely shouldnt make much difference? Plus its easier maintenance wise

Its not if the inlet as a whole is restrictive that is the issue, clearly it wont be, but the key thing is if it flows evenly on the four cylinders, as you dont want to end up with one cylinder leaner than the others as it will risk a meltdown. Where the furthest away cylinder is tapered around, if thats not done at a suitable angle it will potentially cause those sort of issues.

Probably be ok, but like I said, no guarentees.

 

[dmallett]

Its not if the inlet as a whole is restrictive that is the issue, clearly it wont be, but the key thing is if it flows evenly on the four cylinders, as you dont want to end up with one cylinder leaner than the others as it will risk a meltdown. Where the furthest away cylinder is tapered around, if thats not done at a suitable angle it will potentially cause those sort of issues.

Probably be ok, but like I said, no guarentees.

Your knowledge is much more technical than mine. Time will tell if its any good I guess!

 

[Chip-mk1]

Your knowledge is much more technical than mine.

I've been doing all this stuff a lot longer than most folk on here, its just a side effect of being an old git, plus of course being a saddo science geek helps, lol

 

[dmallett]

I've been doing all this stuff a lot longer than most folk on here, its just a side effect of being an old git, plus of course being a saddo science geek helps, lol

Thats true. Have you never considered condensing both of your clios into one? and running the RS2 on the turbo car? I really want to see someone run it on a boosted application, would look so smart if it were to work!

Saying that i know both the clios serve different purposes so would be a bit pointless lol

 

[Chip-mk1]

Thats true. Have you never considered condensing both of your clios into one? and running the RS2 on the turbo car? I really want to see someone run it on a boosted application, would look so smart if it were to work!

Saying that i know both the clios serve different purposes so would be a bit pointless lol

Ive run similar inlets on turbo cars before, it works very well IME, but Im not chasing more power on my Ph1 than the 197 inlet (which is already superior to the 172 one) happily flows anyway, so no need to change it.


This is the inlet I made for my old nova engine for example:

That was made by combining a Jenvey ITB manifold and spacers and a group B rs200 inlet plenum, but very much the same concept as the RS2 in terms of being a shared plenum and very free flowing runners, being centre fed into a squashed cone plenum is particuarly good for flow distribution though but not so easy to achieve in a clio bay hence the RS2 is side fed.

 

[danh90]

Got a few bits done tonight removed the old exhaust manifold fitted new turbo one along with the turbo, actuator and a few little other bits

Now i think ive had a bit of a disaster i was using an allen key fitting in my 1/4" rachet took it out and it fell down by the clutch and i think its actually gone inside it :/ here's a pic of where it went any advice would be great

 

[Chip-mk1]

Either try and fetch it back with a magnet, or just whip the box off and do it, good excuse to look at the clutch anyway to check its ok.

 

[dmallett]

Very interesting that chip, been doing abit of reading on inlet manifolds etc and theres alot more to it than meets the eye.

Dan does that fit with out cutting the bulk head? looks as if it will be tight!

 

[danh90]

Think ill just take the box off as it did fall down the side was resting on top but tried to prise it out slowly and fell :/

Never took a box off either so suppose its another learning curve for me..

 

[Cupman29]

5 minute job to take the box off and as chip says, I would be checking the clutch anyway as if it needs changed, now is the time to do it.

 

[danh90]

Yeah mate well it was in the cup and that hadn't been cut had all the shitty heatproof stuff removed but no cutting i imagine it is going to be tight definately going to get help putting it back in

 

[Cupman29]

Think ill just take the box off as it did fall down the side was resting on top but tried to prise it out slowly and fell :/

Never took a box off either so suppose its another learning curve for me..

Sticks out no further than any other turbo conversion and as the actuator is to the top there shouldn't be any issues.

 

[danh90]

so its simply a few bolts then taking box off? ill have a look on here for any guides tips ect

 

[Chip-mk1]

Very interesting that chip, been doing abit of reading on inlet manifolds etc and theres alot more to it than meets the eye.

Dan does that fit with out cutting the bulk head? looks as if it will be tight!

You seen the difference in the port size between the 197 and 172 inlets? I just posted a picture in my engine rebuild thread if you havent seen it already:

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?672154-Clio-172-197-forged-turbo-engine-build/page3

 

[sprintcup]

You could try one of those cheap Arials from the pound shop that has a magnet on the end if you don't want to seperate, I use this all the time at work but you may need something a bit more flexible with a magnet on the end.

 

[Chip-mk1]

so its simply a few bolts then taking box off? ill have a look on here for any guides tips ect

With it out of the car it takes maybe 2 minutes to remove the box, literally, just undo all the bolts and wiggle it off, absolute piece of cake, if you have a mate handy though get him to stand over the engine and grab hold of it so you dont tip it all over as you wiggle, if not just be a bit more careful.

 

[Cupman29]

Just be careful when putting it back on that the clutch fork is correctly positioned on the release bearing or it won't work.

 

[danh90]

Great stuff will give it a go tommorow a mates meant to be popping round in the morning too so will get a hand..

Tommorow hoping to get that manifold fitted. remove that key bit and check clutch out. try and fit the air con delete regarding that does any of the pipe work need changing or can i use the existing in the ph1 so its literally just fit the cup alternator,bracket ect

 

[Laine_16v]

As above, be very careful. Once the box is wiggled back on the first thing i do is put a bellhousing bolt in and put the clutch cable on to make sure it feels OK.

Would be a right c**t to put the whole car back together only to find the release bearing has fallen off the fork!!

 

[Chip-mk1]

As above, be very careful. Once the box is wiggled back on the first thing i do is put a bellhousing bolt in and put the clutch cable on to make sure it feels OK.

Would be a right c**t to put the whole car back together only to find the release bearing has fallen off the fork!!

I remember years ago putting a box back on my mk1 without the arm in there, as im used to working on cars with proper gearboxes where you dont have to balance a release arm in them as you put it back together, lol

Its a mistake you only make once, lol

 

[Laine_16v]

I remember years ago putting a box back on my mk1 without the arm in there, as im used to working on cars with proper gearboxes where you dont have to balance a release arm in them as you put it back together, lol

Its a mistake you only make once, lol

Haha i bet people could hear you swearing for miles around lol! if i did that id certainly kick my car and walk off in a rageing fit!

 

[Chip-mk1]

Haha i bet people could hear you swearing for miles around lol! if i did that id certainly kick my car and walk off in a rageing fit!

Luckily I noticed before it was totally refitted, was when I did an engine build and I dropped the engine and box back in, bolted it onto the mounts, and then noticed, so was only half an hour to whip it out and correct it as I hadnt got everything else connected up, was still a complete "DOH!" moment though.

 

[danh90]

lol ill make sure i check that then before putting back together..

noticed when i got the car the oil catch tank had an inlet and outlet

now has he had something adapted on the engine for the outlet as theres nothing on mine it would go to there.. i guess the inlet just goes where the breather pipe would? why did he have the outlet running back into the engine? or am i missing something

 

[Chip-mk1]

It wont be an inlet and outlet, it will be two inlets I would imagine, if it was an outlet back to the sump to function as an oil seperator rather than a breather (same setup we use on group A cosworth engines) then it would be returning from the bottom of the tank not the top.

 

[danh90]

So basically i can fit it exaclty how it is in that picture.. do you run one on yours chip need to have a proper good read through your thread

 

[Chip-mk1]

So basically i can fit it exaclty how it is in that picture.

Dont know, cant see where it goes, take better pics.

do you run one on yours chip need to have a proper good read through your thread

The breather setup that I had was of my own design out of necessity as my engine was breathing very heavily on the old rings which were worn out.

Mine comprised of a breather outlet from the head (standard location) going into a catch tank that functions as a seperate, with an outlet from the bottom for the oil to return to the sump into the turbo oil return, but with a one way valve from a servo to make sure it only ever returned down that line and never breathed up it as that would push neat oil up that was returning from the turbo.

Then the upper outlet breathed into another catch tank which also had a return on it which I plumbed back into the dipstick tube to function as a return for that oil, then the upper outlet from that went into a 3rd tank although by that point there was almost no oil left, just a tiny bit of vapour.

That allowed me to use it at silverstone despite the fact that the engine was breathing over a litre in 5 minutes of use on track.

Might leave it setup like that when I put it back together as now Ive made it all it seems silly not using it, but fingers crossed it will be a long time before the new engine actually needs anything that over the top.

 

[danh90]

 

[Chip-mk1]

Yeah exactly as I said before then mate, thats just two outlets from the engine into two inlets in the tank.

 

[danh90]

ah right sound get it now ill just re fit it like that then i think...

just been thinking about that manifold i might struggle fitting my pipework with that as theres not much room at all between that and radiator. suppose ill just have to try and get round it and if cant ill use original manifold

 

[Cupman29]

That allowed me to use it at silverstone despite the fact that the engine was breathing over a litre in 5 minutes of use on track.

Think I would have thrown the towel at that one so hats off to you sir.

 

[Cupman29]

One usually goes to the inlet hose to the throttle body and the other to the carbon canister. Not sure why though.

 

[Chip-mk1]

Think I would have thrown the towel at that one so hats off to you sir.

Got lobbed off at bedford for dropping oil, and had silverstone 2 days later, so knocked it up in the hilton car park from bits from a scrapyard and bits borrowed off the mrs car (her mocal catch tank) and some fittings from B&Q, was damned if I was going to miss 2 trackdays in one weekend!

 

[danh90]

i thought the carbon canistor bit was to the far left side of the engine?

 

[Cupman29]

i thought the carbon canistor bit was to the far left side of the engine?

Think you're right actually. Been working on a megane head too long now.

 

[Cupman29]

Got lobbed off at bedford for dropping oil, and had silverstone 2 days later, so knocked it up in the hilton car park from bits from a scrapyard and bits borrowed off the mrs car (her mocal catch tank) and some fittings from B&Q, was damned if I was going to miss 2 trackdays in one weekend!

fair play indeed then! :hail: