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Bah - Still cutting out
- Thread starter Scutch
- Start date
Ricardos
ClioSport Club Member
LY 200 EDC
Possibly, I'd say fit the sensor in the decat, clear the codes and try again. The ECU will IMO re learn new cycles with it hopefully running ok. No harm in giving it a go
post cat sensor is meant to sit at 0.5v all the time (or there abouts) it doesn't cycle like the pre cat sensor. If it's varying from this then it's seeing unusual readings. It doesn't effect the running of the engine in any way anyhow so all you can use it for is to give an indication of a fault earlier in the system.
UR R26R.5, VW Golf R
Is the front sensor easy to locate? I couldn't find it earlier.
UR R26R.5, VW Golf R
If that's the case it's doing its job then. 409mV is around .5v
So my post lambda is fine? Well well. Back to being stumped I go.
UR R26R.5, VW Golf R
Oh and perhaps someone could check their own, I'm sure this will be normal, but when I was revving the car earlier with the bonnet up, a few seconds later there'd be a click noise from around the belts, like a fuse activating noise. What will that be.
Not only that, but should I be able to rev the car using the throttle cable in the engine bay? Because I can pull on it at will and it will not do anything. I even revved the car and asked my mate if he could see any play in the cable and there was none. Maybe this is normal on the 182...
Not only that, but should I be able to rev the car using the throttle cable in the engine bay? Because I can pull on it at will and it will not do anything. I even revved the car and asked my mate if he could see any play in the cable and there was none. Maybe this is normal on the 182...
Clio 172
Ricardos
ClioSport Club Member
LY 200 EDC
AFAIK, cable won't do anything as its electric
Was gonna say I thought the 182 was FBW and not cable like the Phs1 Clio 172
lolz, you don't have a throttle cable
turn the ignition on and it calibrates. If you listen you'll hear it do it. Just opens and shuts to find min and max values
UR R26R.5, VW Golf R
F*ck me this bloody car. It's a good job I don't know where this Mr. Renault lives. France somewhere no doubt...
How on earth do you reset one? I took mine off, cleaned it, put it back on and it seemed fine. Aside from the cutting out. Obviously.
UR R26R.5, VW Golf R
Good man. Fountain of knowledge. Didn't think it would do it after every rev, but there you go. Any ideas what the hell is wrong with my car?
So far this week I have:
Cleaned the throttle body - did nothing.
Cleaned the TDC - did nothing.
Swapped V6 airbox for standard box - did nothing.
Disconnected rear lambda - gave me fault code that it wasn't activated which in turn made the front lambda cease to work.
Replaced IAT valve - did nothing but seems to have made the idle even worse on startup (exhaust clatters for a second when revs drop until throttle kicks in to bump it up to 1k).
To do:
Change throttle body.
Change MAP sensor.
Change coil pack.
Possibly look at changing lambda sensor.
Could it be my timing belt? LOL. Love just guessing. It's actually quite exciting knowing my car is stuffed when it gets up to temperature knowing it will cut out when I come to a junction or stop. When it's actually sorted I'll probably still be revving it to keep it above 1k
Symptoms:
Car is fine when cold. Bit of a lumpy start but then idles ok (decat possibly).
When warmed up (half on temp gauge), car starts cutting out when clutch is de-pressed at junctions or coming to a stop. Sometimes - sometimes - it won't cut out, but it'll get to around 100rpm and will kick itself into action and idle back to 1k. So it's not all the time it cuts out.
So far this week I have:
Cleaned the throttle body - did nothing.
Cleaned the TDC - did nothing.
Swapped V6 airbox for standard box - did nothing.
Disconnected rear lambda - gave me fault code that it wasn't activated which in turn made the front lambda cease to work.
Replaced IAT valve - did nothing but seems to have made the idle even worse on startup (exhaust clatters for a second when revs drop until throttle kicks in to bump it up to 1k).
To do:
Change throttle body.
Change MAP sensor.
Change coil pack.
Possibly look at changing lambda sensor.
Could it be my timing belt? LOL. Love just guessing. It's actually quite exciting knowing my car is stuffed when it gets up to temperature knowing it will cut out when I come to a junction or stop. When it's actually sorted I'll probably still be revving it to keep it above 1k
Symptoms:
Car is fine when cold. Bit of a lumpy start but then idles ok (decat possibly).
When warmed up (half on temp gauge), car starts cutting out when clutch is de-pressed at junctions or coming to a stop. Sometimes - sometimes - it won't cut out, but it'll get to around 100rpm and will kick itself into action and idle back to 1k. So it's not all the time it cuts out.
UR R26R.5, VW Golf R
Oh, I almost forgot, I did mention that over the last few days when it's cut out, it's seemed to rob me of petrol, as I've certainly had enough in the tank to prevent the light coming on, yet it still comes on after the cut out. Again, this isn't happening all the time, but when it does, I'm certain I've had at least 50/60 miles in the tank. Well, lately, my petrol gauge is showing just under half a tank full, yet my TRIP computer range is saying I have around 34 miles left. That does not tally. Whenever I've had only 34 miles or so on the digital display, my petrol light has been on and the gauge is near the red. Something is not right at all.
UR R26R.5, VW Golf R
Coolant temp sensor can throw up problems and not show up on the code readers too
Are you looking into fitting the rear lambda in the decat to clear that off the list?
It's already fitted in the decat mate. All I did earlier was unclip the connector but left the lambda plugged into the decat.
As of now, it's back to how it was and has been - both lambdas plugged in and connected. I just found it odd that when I unclipped the connected to the rear, the front one didn't work.
UR R26R.5, VW Golf R
Out of interest, is the idle control valve on the 182 built into the throttle body, or is it somewhere else?
Also, couple of requests:
1. A picture of where the front lambda is located (I believe it's on the manifold somewhere, but easy to get to?)
2. Any information or images of the vacuum/air lines to the brakes?
I do recall one of the threads which I found when searching and the reason for the cutting out was a brake sensor faulty but also a leak in one of the lines. I just don't know where I'm looking to route that from the engine bay down.
Cheers guys.
Also, couple of requests:
1. A picture of where the front lambda is located (I believe it's on the manifold somewhere, but easy to get to?)
2. Any information or images of the vacuum/air lines to the brakes?
I do recall one of the threads which I found when searching and the reason for the cutting out was a brake sensor faulty but also a leak in one of the lines. I just don't know where I'm looking to route that from the engine bay down.
Cheers guys.
UR R26R.5, VW Golf R
I was just saying to Nick, I can even feel within the car on the way to work when the "change" occurs, the car seems to become a little different for a second like it's going through the alteration from cold to warm and I know it's going to cut out when it happens. True enough, I get to a junction and the revs drop to below 1k and I have to keep it revving to steady it back.
Not sure if this is related, years ago i owned a 1.2, never mod'ed but used to have the same problem. Was down to a doggy earth and FBW was fcuked so had that replaced. Afterward the problem never re-occured. Not sure if its the same as a 1.2 is completly different.
Reasoning behind doggy earth causing it, was that it would sometime come away, causing it to stall/cut out... wouldnt do it all the time as it was normally connect (was just a bad connection)
Reasoning behind doggy earth causing it, was that it would sometime come away, causing it to stall/cut out... wouldnt do it all the time as it was normally connect (was just a bad connection)
UR R26R.5, VW Golf R
Yeah could certainly be a bad connection somewhere but it's just odd that it doesn't happen when the car is cold. It's when it's warmed up to about halfway on the temp gauge. Which makes me think it's a sensor or something sticking.
Also, and probably unrealted, as I mentioned my petrol gauge is showing well over 1/4 tank yet my digital trip is telling me I have 26 miles left in the tank. The light usually comes on when I have 41 miles left in the tank but hasn't even flickered yet. There's just something odd about the gauge reading and the digital display output range. They just aren't tallying up. It's like there's plenty of fuel in the tank and the float is obviously indicating to the gauge that there's enough in, but the trip computer is out.
Also, and probably unrealted, as I mentioned my petrol gauge is showing well over 1/4 tank yet my digital trip is telling me I have 26 miles left in the tank. The light usually comes on when I have 41 miles left in the tank but hasn't even flickered yet. There's just something odd about the gauge reading and the digital display output range. They just aren't tallying up. It's like there's plenty of fuel in the tank and the float is obviously indicating to the gauge that there's enough in, but the trip computer is out.
What MPG does it say its doing... alot worse than usuall? if so that would explain why your fuel millage is majorly wrong!
My petrol light came on last night (dont normally run that low), millage went off at 37 miles. Mate normally lets his go low and he said his allways flashes off at about 40 miles.
The petrol light will only come on when the fuel gauge is nearing the red. It wont be set off by the number of miles you have left in your tank according to the trip computer. It sounds that your trip computer is not right. Fuel millage is set by your MPG vs the amount of ltr's left in the tank. You can additionally check the number of lts of fuel you have left by doing the dial test, and then keep clicking the button on the wipper stalk.
If your fuel millage is that low, yet you have sufficient fuel, i would assume you have a sensor issue as stated above... prob need to change/test with someone elses to see if it sorts it out!
UR R26R.5, VW Golf R
The car was cutting out before I put the map on mate, so I don't see that as an issue.
Also, I would have to re-write the original ECU map and then overwrite the current calibration map, which takes time. It's not a case of simply replacing the current calibration with the original calibration, as the sofware versions will differ.
UR R26R.5, VW Golf R
Could be wrong, but i actually thought lamba sensors would read the fuel ect... but Chip or on of the specilists will give you the proper answer!
The strange MPG/Fuel millage reads could explain the cutting out tho, they could suggest that its not allowing enough fuel at times and at others provide to much.
Just a random stab in the dark, to any of the specilists or knowledgable members, could this be anything to do with Idle Control Valve?
Ah ok, well hope you get it sorted soon, such a ball ache when anything like that happens and kills the joy of driving it (Well it does for me). Anyway will go back to lurking now
Ricardos
ClioSport Club Member
LY 200 EDC
Low MPG again indicates lambda to me, if running lean the ECU would dump more fuel in? Air/fuel mixture is set so if it's outside the parameters it readjusts.... Or spits its dummy. Again I'm no expert so someone might have other ideas but above is how I'd see it?
Also there's a vacuum pipe that runs off the back of the cylinder head to the servo, might be worth checking for holes
Also there's a vacuum pipe that runs off the back of the cylinder head to the servo, might be worth checking for holes
UR R26R.5, VW Golf R
It's ok checking that pipe from the engine down, but once it's gets into the matrix of pipes and components, it's difficult keeping tabs on it and therefore checking it all the way down. Like I say, the mechanics checked for any leaks after they'd fitted the cylinder head etc. but I guess an air leak could be the problem. Would that cause the car to cut out when warm and not cold though, and when revs drop to under 1k not triggering the throttle? I'm trying to cancel out several things but TBH it could be anything so I'll have to perservere to test everything I guess,
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