My pleasure mate, always happy to help. In fact I enjoy it so drop me a line if you are ever stumped and I’ll try and help. Few years of sorting problems out with these cars now 😂 car looks mint by the way!
Hey mate, recognise the name from IG. Definitely, should get a little drive out sorted for summer and a track day at Llandow sounds good.Only just getting round to reading through this thread mate, great read!
We definitely need to arrange something in the South Wales area soon. Maybe Llandow... 🫣
I'll drop you a message on instagram in a bit mate, we have a few cars heading to a trackday soon at Llandow! Just need to sort a date out that suits everyoneHey mate, recognise the name from IG. Definitely, should get a little drive out sorted for summer and a track day at Llandow sounds good.
It was a dodgy captive bolt that kick started me removing my engine. I replaced them with new genuine ones, so the next person wouldn’t have to go through the same dilemma. It’ll look great when you’ve finished.I have many an update.
Firstly, picking up where I left off.
The USB port issue abiuve was solved with a new USB plug. Wasn't a wiring issue but a fault with the USB port itself.
It goes mildly down hill from here.
I wanted to fit EPAS as my PAS system was leaking and at the last track day I was black flagged as the fluid was causing a smoke screen and rightly the Marshalls flagged me in.
I sourced all the EPAS bits, Column, Portuguese ecu, loop rack kit etc.
What I didn't have was the knowledge of how to do it. SOS sent out to Kiv (need to find his user name on here) who has all the knowledge and kindly made the trip over to me from Bristol to South Wales.
To make it worth Kiv's while and to get the most out of his knowledge I also sprung an AC delete and battery relocation on him....
How it started.
View attachment 1656875
View attachment 1656876
View attachment 1656877
Things started well(ish) and without Kiv I'd have been totally out of my depth.
All was going well until we got to removing the PAS lines off the rack. One would not come off. Left with little choice, we dropped the Subframe. This was a good idea at the time, until we had the battle of our lives with the captive nuts/Subframe bolts.
View attachment 1656878
View attachment 1656879
Some of the bits that won't be going back on.
View attachment 1656880
View attachment 1656881
Can't underestimate how bloody difficult it was getting the Subframe off with the bolts spinning or not moving at all with all our effort. Out came the angle grinder.
How it was left...
View attachment 1656882
There's more updates to come but wanted to give a massive thanks to Kiv firstly and all of those ClioSport members on Instagram who dropped me messages of encouragement, advice, uselessness or banter during this leg of the build.
I had searched and results say that ABS, SERV are usually good mates with ESP light too. But no, no ESP light.
So this all started around the same time I managed to put the clutch switch and brake switch on the wrong pedals, right connections wrong holes above the pedals. Yes, everytime I put the clutch in the brake lights would come on.... DOH!
Because when I pressed the brake pedal, no brake lights came on, I spent a while thinking my brake light switch was faulty, bought a new brake light switch (which was the clutch switch, still following?) and at the same time I realised my mistake. Fitted a new clutch switch (in my mind the brake switch) Swapped the switches to the correct holes and adjusted the real brake light switch back in to postion.
Once I realised my mistake and put them the switches on the correct pedals, I had brake lights. The ABS and SERV lights have been on throughout all this.
On thing I did test was the brake light switch. I removed it from the connector block and the ABS +SERV lights were on. Refitted the switch and the lights were still on. So does that determine the switch is faulty, if whether it's connected or not I still have ABS + SERV lights?
That gave me a headache writing that.