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brake bias valve 172/182

ben_p said:
i bought the AP kit, but i want to keep the ABS, so i cant use it
Click to expand...

if you wanna sell it i might know someone who wants it...............me :D

how far on with it are you fred? are you just going to connect the two pipes from the master cylinder using a T piece, run that one pipe to the bias valve, then split the pipe coming out of the valve with another T piece and run them to the calipers? thats how i understand it to work anyway :o

i've got so narked off with the standard mk1 load sensitive valve that i think im gonna bin it and use an in-car adjuster, bit more work and a bit more cost, but at least i know it will work, unlike this standard valve ive got :rolleyes:
 
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i'm bolting it all on hopefully on tuesday

i have 2 outputs from the master cylinder, 1 is going into a T piece and then to the front 2 calipers, the second is going under the car and then up into the cabin, into the valve and back out under the car into a T piece then to the rear brakes, well thats how i understand it to work anyway!

the 172 cup has 4 outputs off the master cylinder IIRC (172 and 182 with ABS have only 2) so i guess you need to take the 2 rear lines into a Tpiece, then into the valve then out into a second T piece to the rear calipers

the Tilton valve is basically a pressure reduction valve, on position 1 maximum pressure goes to the rears (same pressure as the fronts get) but on position 7 the flow is restricted, so less pressure goes to the rear

hopefully i've got that right, if i'm on here posting on Tuesday night i will have got it correct! LOL
 
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yeh thats basically how i understood it

my car originally had abs so 2 of the master cylinder outlets were blocked, all i did was remove the blocking screws and set it up as per the non abs models and removed abs unit all together.

then all im going to do now is connect pipes that run to rear into 1, into bias valve, back out of valve and split into 2, then to calipers. job done :D

why did you choose the tilton rather than an infinately adjustable screw type if you dont mind me asking?

i've looked at both (although a cheaper lever type) and cant decide which would be better
 
because if some silly bugger of a mate gets in the car and "twiddles my knob" i'll have no idea what setting its on, with the lever type i only have 7 options and can visually tell what its set too

plus i got the lever one for a special price ;)
 
Fred said:
because if some silly bugger of a mate gets in the car and "twiddles my knob" i'll have no idea what setting its on, with the lever type i only have 7 options and can visually tell what its set too

plus i got the lever one for a special price ;)
Click to expand...

any chance of another at a special price ;)

i was gonna mark mine so i knew what setting it was at lol had the same thoughts of some clever sod messing with it while im not looking :nono:
 
the lever ones are what all the racers use, aparently they're easier to adjust whilst on the move

the rrp of the one i've got is about £60, i'm sure i could sort something if a few people want them
 
yep :D

finally got my head round the different connection/union types, dont know why i didnt learn it earlier, laziness i expect
 
im thinking somewhere on exhaust tunnel in front of the gear lever maybe, within arms reach but not too close so it can be accidentally knocked
 
yes i fitted it today, works very well! i drilled through the tranny tunnel and mounted it next to the gearstick

(apart from when you "forget" to put the spigot ring into the back of the wheel and then the wheel proceeds to part company with the car when testing the valve out! LOL oops!)
 
sounds good fred, come across any problems when fitting/plumbing it in? apart from loosing a wheel lol
 
yeah finding rubber grommets that are good enough! (i drilled through the floor to run the pipes inside the cabin)

at the moment i have no rubber grommets in which isn't ideal, i'll have to readdress that issue later

oh and when bleeding i did both calipers on the axle at the same time
 
yeh im gonna go through the bulkhead somewhere, and then drill through the boot floor just above where the braided flexis sit so i can connect them up

did you do as per the tilton instructions and bleed the brakes with the bias set to maximum rear pressure? it says something about going easy on the pedal when bleeding aswell
 
yeah max rear pressure (basically equals the same pressure to all wheels) when bleeding, but you need to do both rears and both fronts at the same time to get all the air out
 
also mount the valve so when its on full front pressure the handle is forward, makes it easier to understand
 
yeh i read that bit on the destructions, read through most of it when i was bored at work :approve:
 
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