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Burpspeed - From The beginning



Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
^^^^ lol......you don't know how possible that actually is, just make sure you break down around the south west area and maybe you will see him..

like the flat head / flush bolts, just make sure you don't round the holes when you put them in...thats a pain
 
The counter sunk ones you mean ?

If you need some jay let me know the thread size and length and i should be able to get you some from work.
 
  172 Race Car
The counter sunk ones you mean ?

If you need some jay let me know the thread size and length and i should be able to get you some from work.
Cool man, will be in touch about that.

love this thread. Whats the current bhp per tonne? Did the brake CAFs make any difference?
Not sure on the bhp/ton currently.

Its 175bhp but it hasnt been weighed for ages. Back in march last year it was weighed at around 980kg with 3/4 tank of fuel. that was with the a/c still fitted.

Will re-weigh it when it goes back on the scene.


As for the brake cold air feeds, im not 100% sure how much of a difference they make coz I have always run them on track. Only time i didnt was the cs airfield sprint but its only a short run.

My first proper time on track in it was at Bedford, the car was on Cheap pattern disc's and pads iirc. I had no issues with the brakes, altho i was being a little gentle with them, Bedford has some big stops. On the same day Bomber's greenstuff's caught fire. And they did again when we went to Bedford again. However he fitted cooling ducts like mine and had no issues at Oulton

I Pushed them quite hard at Rockingham (was on brembo max and DS2500 by then) and no problems at all through out the 30 min sessions. Apart from getting noisy.


Id recommend brake cooling as a very important upgrade if you are doing track work. As said ive never had fade or boiled fluid at all.
 
  172 Race Car
Over 6 weeks since the last update and alot has happened. So with this thread dissapering off the bottom of the list I thought id let you all know whats been going on.


I bought a Cobra Imola seat off Schweepy. I sold the subframe as I stil had my old ones from the Forza seats I originaly had in the car. These frames were for base mounted seats but with a little measuring and drilling its fitted on quite well.

First I had to remove one of the runner supports on the frame to allow some room for the side mounts. Luckily they are just tack welded to the top of the frame so it doesnt afect the structure of the subframe at all.

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Trial fitted the seat to the frame in the car and lined up where id want the seat to be, secured with some mole grips to hold in place while I marked up the holes.

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A little bit of paint.


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All botled back in the car now, had to come out a few times for slight adjustments but now ive also adjusted the coloumn position (for the third time) to suit the new seat and steering wheel. I'll get a pic of it all fitted sometime.



A few weeks ago I had a late night text from someone saying they were selling some goodies off their car. I snapped up the adjustable coilovers. So with a little help from Shadowness the H&R's came off.


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Anyone guess what the 'Ghetto' axle support is under the wheel?


The car is now on stands at the front and sitting on 182 cup springs (with no shocks) at the rear.

THE H&R's ARE SOLD.......

And my new ones?



AST's!


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They were abit grubby so a quick jetwash at Tesco and they came up like new.

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Im not bolting them on yet as ive found a broken helper spring on one of the rear shocks so im gonna strip them down just to check everything.



Finally got around to making a panel to fill the 'Glory hole' in the bulkhead. Made up a cardboard template.

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Found some scrap tin at my mates work, cut it too size and cleaned it up.

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Gave it a coat of paint I found lying around and i'll silicone it on sometime.



I picked up my new mobile recently so I could finaly buy a holder for it to run it as a satnav and finish the dash. less than 9 quid off ebay with a charging lead, Bargin, I bought three, one for the Clio, one for the Pug and one for the van, Lol.

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My bro was round so I left it to him. He took the swivel mount off the windscreen holder and screwwed it to the carbon panel next to the hazard switch.

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The finished article........

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Fits and works very well, can be turned to landscape. Just need to tidy the charging lead up, not sure where its going to come out of the dash. I did investigate Inferno's sugestion of counter sunk screws but the carbon is too thin. Changed the bolts to black around the switch tho.
 
  172 Race Car
As I may have mentioned before the clutch release bearing as always been noisy since I bought the car. This could be the route cause of the clutch ratchet problem I was having. The clutch itself is fine but after seeing what happened to Johnc172's cup clutch on track I thought it wise to change it now before it lunched itself.

As im sure we are all aware its quite a big job. So with the help of a mate we got started. To make access easier we took off the bumper.

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Coz that was off I took the chance to change the drivers side wing as mine was broken on the bumper fixing point. Im also after a new bumper to tidy the car up a little more.

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Found a s**t load of dirt trapped behind the wing, 9 years worth.
Resisted the urge to sweep it all up and weigh it :eek:

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I will be cleaning the nearside too tho :approve:




So onto the clutch change, first job was to remove the hubs and driveshafts. The trackrod end on the drivers side gave us some trouble, so we got medievil on it.

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Big hammers and pigs trotter tool and 30mins later it was off. Passenger side must of seen what was going on and gave up without a fight. Two new ones when rebuilding tho I think.

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Took off the calipers and seriously well used DS2500's. The discs are ruined also, so more to add to the shopping list.


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Drained the gearbox, oil was very clean but then its only been in there for a few thousand miles.

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Lower ball joint bolts off and shaft pulled out of the box. Whole assembly put to one side.

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Same on the passenger side but it has 3 bolts holding the shaft in.

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Took off the gearbox 'dogbone'

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Undone the subframe strengthening bits (not sure on their real name) The bolts to the subframe didn't want to come out so got left on and just undone from the chassis. Will try and free the rusted bolts before it goes back in.

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After undoing the gear linkage, a couple of pipes and wires that were in the way, the front gearbox support, the pas pipe where its bolted to the block and supporting the radiator from above, we used two trolley jacks to lower the subframe down slowly, making sure nothing was catching.

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Not that hard to do tbh, just a lot to take off and a bit tight with the pas pipes. Safe to say I wont be cleaning and painting the subframe. It wont go back in until we have fitted the new brake pipes as access is a doddle now. Also I need to loosen the support bolts that were seized and change some bits on the rack.


We carried on and got the gearbox out.......

Supported the engine.

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Gearbox mount and bell housing bolts out, lowered the engine down a little and lifted the box out.

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To find a pleasent sight, the clutch cover very badly worn by the breaing. Not much longer and the release bearing would of gone through the cover.

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Took the brearing out and that was very notchy and partly seized.

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The actual friction plate was in very good nick. the cover has probably worn like that due to someone sitting in traffic with their foot on the clutch all the time, instead of using neutral and the handbrake. Should be very nice to drive now with a new one in.

Picked a replacement up off the forum a while ago. Borg and Beck, apparently uprated slightly.

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Gave the bellhousing a wash out and lubricated the pivot.

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Now at this point I considered removing the flywheel and sending it off for a skim and ballance. I would of had to put the box back in temprary so the engine could be supported (I couldnt leave it on the jack) I made a phone call to my local machine shop who said they could do the work for me but it could be a week or so as they had to send it to another company for ballancing. They could of skimmed it and had it back to me within a day tho. As I wont have much time to spend on the car for a few weeks i made the decision (after a long chat with a work mate) to just put it back together as it was. the flywheel didnt 'need' a skim as the face was very clean and I hadnt had any judder at all. The only problem was the cover and bearing. Lightening the flywheel would of been nice but it was a time and cost factor.


Box went back in..........

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One major job done and a step closer to the end. time is going to be more difficult to find over the next few weeks so im happy this is done.
 
  172 Race Car
With plenty of space around having no subframe in the car I finished removing the ABS stuff.

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Bracket out.....

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Pulled the wiring loom back and found a multiplug in the fuse box.

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So managed to take the complete abs loom out easy.

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Leaving a nice big space for the pas pump to live.

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I had considered many options on where to place the pump, Favorite for a time was in the position the cup racers have theirs.

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Its fits the space but I ruled it out as it would of made the pipe work more difficult and its putting more weight on the drivers side, not an issue on the cup cars as they are wrong hand drive anyway.


Looked into putting it the other side but the main wiring loom is there and there wasn't room at the Inn.

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Im pleased with the location ive chosen, it fits very well and makes the pipe work and wiring much easier to modify.


Trial fitted it in place and it was a bit tight.

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Hacked a bit off the battery mounting point.

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And it fits

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Mounted the bracket on one original point and drilling two new holes.

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Cleaned up the bit I cut off the battery holder to give more room and fitted the pump on loosely

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Plenty of clearance to the coolant bottle.

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And the induction kit.

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Eventualy found an angle for the ecu to fit giving anough distance from everything and not catching the wiring loom anywhere.


Its all coming back off soon to install the brake lines and wiring for the pas. But I know it all fits now...........................
 
M

mini-valver

That PAS set-up is looking f**king mint! Did you have much trouble with the captive nuts on the subframe? I only lowered the passenger side to d my box because the drivers side rear bolt (bulkhead side) just spun and its 90% impossible to get a spanner in!
 
  172 Race Car
Nope, no trouble with the main subframe bolts at all. just the small ones that attach the strengthening things. I was quite surprised about the condition of everything considering its 9 years old and done 107,000miles.
 
  3.2 V6 4KEV, 944 Cab, 172
Mr Burp, please remind me, is the PAS pump a Saxo VTR/VTS pump?

Did you look into whether it produces the same pressure etc as the Cup Racer electric pumps (or OEM hydraulic pumps)??

Everything looking minty-mint, as usual!! :star:

Cheers, Baggers.
 
  3.2 V6 4KEV, 944 Cab, 172
Yea Saxo one, No idea on pressures etc Chose it for packaging reasons

What if it's not up to the pressure? Will it just mean a 'heavier' PAS set-up?

If so, I guess that's not too bad...

Am I just being anal?

Shall I just get a Saxo pump too? I've sourced a brand newy for £110 delivered... ;)
 
  172 Race Car
I take it your not doing any work in this weather today!? ;) (although it is brightening up!)
I'll b out after 3pm I expect, will finish the dash off.

What if it's not up to the pressure? Will it just mean a 'heavier' PAS set-up?

If so, I guess that's not too bad...

Am I just being anal?

Shall I just get a Saxo pump too? I've sourced a brand newy for £110 delivered... ;)
Wont matter too much if its a little heavy. I have a switch to turn it off too. Thought you had a manual rack now anyway?
 
I'll b out after 3pm I expect, will finish the dash off.

Wont matter too much if its a little heavy. I have a switch to turn it off too. Thought you had a manual rack now anyway?

Well if you need a hand, drop me a text. Im doing nothing all day and Im bored lol!
 
  A4 DTM/iceberg cup
good work as usual mate.. have been keeping an eye out for this thread... man your misses must love you... look at the state of the drive ;) lol
 
  172 Race Car
Did a little more today, mostly small stuff as it was raining off and on all day. Shadowness came over to help.

Finished securing the dash top down and took some pics of the seat and wheel all fitted.



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Cleared out a load of junk from the car and took out the passenger side subframe. will sort something out soon for the passenger seat.


One job thats needed doing for a while is finishing off the wiper linkage. the panel needed to be drilled for its new position.


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Trial fitted then made the hole bigger later to suit the wiper arm.

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After a bit of experimanting with the blade angle and park position we settled on havin it park on the passenger side out of the way. I'll get an external pic of it sometime.

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Quite pleased with how it works, just need a slightly smaller blade now, as it hangs over the edge of the screen and some grommits to put in the old holes
 
  e92 + E46 M3 + Cup
Looking sweet as again mate, thought the project was going on hold when i saw the H&R's for sale, AST's look the dads :D, Is there going to be a big improvement over the H&R's?


P.s. I want your steering wheel ;)
 
  172 Race Car
Looking sweet as again mate, thought the project was going on hold when i saw the H&R's for sale, AST's look the dads :D, Is there going to be a big improvement over the H&R's?


P.s. I want your steering wheel ;)
Main thing with the ast's is the adjustability. plus the fact that powerstation (the uk importer) are 5 mins away from me so i can get them serviced/setup/altered etc very easily.

Its all about personal preferance but having driven two Clio's on ast's I like them and the way they drive. Had my car not come with h&r's in a box in the boot when i got it id of probably saved up and bought ast's anyway.

oh and EVERYONE wants my steering wheel :rasp:
 
  106 GTI
Have you sorted the problem with the battery relocation? Guppy said it kept losing the headunit settings etc due to something like voltage drop?
 


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