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buying valver, mechanic probs help!





chris is your 1400 head tuned (ok perhaps a silly question seeign as thats your living, just wondered what kind of spec you have in it)
 


my head, erm well get the flask and blanket out....

One sunny day a few months back I was changing my cambelt. Anyway I had the new belt on etc etc but I hadnt put the the alt belt pulley on the crank. So I started it to make sur eit was ok. Now the choek was ou and it was running around 3krpm. I was about to shut it off (cos I knew what would happen) but a mate came by and we got talking. So after a few mins the crank pulley moved off the woodruff key and the pistons smacked the valves. Feck.

So I had a vain hope that it would be fine. Stuck it all backtogether and it started running. It wasnt running right. That would be bent valves. So the head off and the fact it was runnign was surprising as there was 3 bent valves on seperate cylinder so it was actually running on 1 cyl! lol

Anyway I have a spare engine so I took the head from that car (that car? what car? This one... http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/file.php?image=1059916591__random_pics_05.jpghttp://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/file.php?image=1059916591__random_pics_05.jpg ) anyway head off that one and it was in a right state. I thought I ken I will port it a bit.

Well I did a bit, I done the most half arsed attempt at porting ever seen, done the short turn radius of the inlets feck all on the exhausts and got bored halfway through cleaning the valves.

Even though it was a crap attempt when it was back together I had to richen the idle mixture because the air flow had increased (as one would expect) at the low speeds so it was running lean. It pulled better from low revs but it was half hearted so not that great. Its npot helped by the fact the carb is knakcered (accel pump works sometimes and th epower valve is erm a bit tired) so its down on power due to that as well.

Georges head is a proper effort, but hes a paying customer, his will also now be faster than mine which is annoying.
 


the pics of the head are actually the heads held above the scanner! lol I dont have a digi cam so they are not great. The valver head is out in the shed with the engine, I will rebuild it at spome point and get some silly bhp figure from it.
 


lol just got me thinking - what intake setup is better, the carbs on the 19 or the single pt inj on the RT? i suppose the carbs much easier to setup, ie no mapping etc but the inj sys more precise?
 


the carb is the better manifold, the better fueling set up and it actually give the 80bhp not the 73 of the SPI models.

The worst thing renault did was SPI the energy.
 


so why did the do it then? was it to modernise the car, so you can say its "1.4 INJECTION"?! ;) is it easier general maintenince, better efficiency etc?
 


so it would be emmisions compliant in a nutshell. Carb cars that run well can pass the CAt test but most dont run well. Also peopel didnt want to have to pull a choke out etc etc.
 
  Titanium 182


erm, im a little lost but basically its not std, i dont care whats faster or what like i said, i dont buy cars to thrash them,



chris h, like u said u dont know me/ i dont know u/ live in the glovebox of a shed.

u33db, the leak could be leaking shcoks true, but they all seem mine not bounce and settle instantly, but the leak is defos trasmition fluid around the middle of the engine bay, its hardly leaking at all but smells of onion! but i know the cars had a new clutch so like some one said coulb be over full of oil
 


you dont buy cars to thrash them so what do you do with them?

I know, you wear a baseball cap dont you and Ill wager that you sit in Maccie Ds car park trying to impress the 12 year old girls puking up white lightening or whatever the tipple of choice is these days.

As for the transmission leak, well it will be from the nearside driveshaft inner gaiter and they also leak from the box selector rod. Boxes dont leak from the top, unless the breather is spitting oiut oil and the box would need to be way overfilled and it would be pissing oil out leavign a trail everywhere.
 


does the gaiter come with a seal attached. have the same prob at the mo, and havent take nthe shaft off yet to look at it but talking to some people there may be a seal attached to the gaiter. on instection, my gaiter isnt damaged atall, so would that point to the drvieshaft seal?
 


Quote: Originally posted by VoRN-182 on 03 August 2003

3K? what went wrong?
Here goes>>>

Head gasket and clutch had gone so had the engine reconditioned (since it had to come out anyway), then found out the shocks, brakes were knacked so replaced them. Cooling system fecked so replaced. Gauges fecked so replaced alongs with the ultra-vague steering. Had the MOT a few weeks ago and the altenator went 2 days after so had to be replaced. Tyres near bald so replaced, central locking system knacked so replaced etc....list is endless!!! Hopefully i can start to enjoy it soon!!

Obviously it had a hard life but going by the list above the previous owners should be given a right good kicking.....
 


the gaiter is fixed to the box and the shaft spings through it, not the best bit of engineering ever but hey.

On the driveshaft a bearing is pressed onto it. The gaiter is clamped over this.

Its all ok but the gaiter gets worn by the shafts touching it due to suspension movement. It basically wears oval and oil seeps out of it.

The gaiter is the actual seal. They all do it though.
 
  Titanium 182


As for the transmission leak, well it will be from the nearside driveshaft inner gaiter and they also leak from the box selector rod. Boxes dont leak from the top, unless the breather is spitting oiut oil and the box would need to be way overfilled and it would be pissing oil out leavign a trail everywhere.

is this pricey to fix chris?, i took a look at the box selector rod like u stated and that seems to be coverd in oil? but its only leaking such a tiny amount had the car 3hrs and got about 3drips?

i just enjoy owning decent looking cars, thats has the best spec in the range, and this is usauly the performance models!
 


the rod selector is a stri[p the box down effort. Dont bother.

Gaiter aint to dear.

Clean the whole area up. The selector (especially the rubber gaiter over the remote rod to the selector arm collect swater and makes oil leak out. Also change the box oil. Go to a factors and get box oil, much cheaper than halfords etc.

Also not all cars have the plastic cover that goes over the selector rod, so leaks here with no cover seem to cause trouble. When its hidden, well you cant see it so theres no problem if you get me.
 
  Titanium 182


ok mate, you seem to know alot about these cars! :)



whats a factors?, iv got some gearbox or for manual citroen / pugs? that wont do will it?
 


factors = your local motor spares place.

im guessing your oil is SAE 80? dunno for the valver but checked in a factors in their reccomended guidelines and my RT box needs a different oil, something like 75W......cant rememebr the other number. but check before you fill it up.

RE gaiter chris, cheers for the info doesnt seem like the most advanced technology ever, but f**k it makes it a bit easier for me to repair!
 


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