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Changing Top Engine Mount?

  Audi TT 225
Can anyone tell me if this is the correct process for changing the drivers side top engine mount? I cant get the renault software working on vista.

Get the car up on axle stands
Jack up the bottom of the engine (from where, sump?)
Undo the three bolts on top of the cam cover.
Undo the bold holding the cam cover mount to the engine mount
Remove cover.

Jack the engine up further.
Undo the four bolts attaching the mount to the chassis and lift out the duff mount.

Then reverse process to refit?
Any ideas of the torque settings to use for all the above bolts?
 
That sounds better! is it ok to put the jack anywhere on the bottom of the engine?
Might have a go at changing this with tim, was talking to a dude says he can get the mount for £23 from euro parts, sounds better than £70 from stealers.

Oh and are these mounts the same on ph1/ph2?
 
cool thankin ya, would there be a way of bracing the knackered mount like stuffing a hunk of rubber at each side (front/back) to limit the movement and stop the cam cover bit clanging on the sides of the mount?
Or wouldn't it make a difference
 
Also make sure you use a bit of wood or something between the jack and the sump when supporting the engine to spread the weight a bit.
 
Whilst you are changing this engine mount is it worth squeezing the black casing together that the mount sits in, so the rubber bits of the new mount touches both edges of the black casing resticting it movement? Ive seen this done on a few 172/182s does it make a noticable difference when driving? Is it a good idea?

Rob.
 
^Good question, I doubt you would be able to squeeze it together, probably more easier to pack something rubber down the gap, although Renault must have had it this way for a reason but its worth a try.
 
^Good question, I doubt you would be able to squeeze it together, probably more easier to pack something rubber down the gap, although Renault must have had it this way for a reason but its worth a try.
I was thinking a bit of a hunk of tyre wall or something wedged down the sides if you had an old one lying around to chop up lol
 
Whilst you are changing this engine mount is it worth squeezing the black casing together that the mount sits in, so the rubber bits of the new mount touches both edges of the black casing resticting it movement? Ive seen this done on a few 172/182s does it make a noticable difference when driving? Is it a good idea?

Not a bad idea the mount rubbers wear out quicker but realy its not a bad idea and easy to do.
 
I was told by bb tuning as I see it on a couple of there cars they said you would need to remove it and squeeze it together either by a clamp or vice maybe?? Also Omar (ohms??) did it when he had a 182 I think... Seeing as you are changing this mount you might aswell do this mod also....
 
I'd be happy with it being standard knowing the shape of the mount thats on the car, its looser than a hookers nickers!
Squeezing it together might cause problems imo, the bolt holes might not line up
 
Thats what I was trying to say if you squeeze it together the mount wont sit flat on the frame and the holes probably wont line up. Or you will bolt it down and it will bend open again.

Just needs some rubber wedged into the gap.

DSC00269.jpg
 
Hmm... I know what your saying if done wrong then it could cause the holes to not line up properly..
Maybe if you left it bolted in place to the engine as it is, nice and tight, then squeeze the black casing together with the mount still in there or after you have fitted the new mount I reckon that would work better rather than taking it off the car or you could just shove some rubber in there :-)
 
iv done this guys,i fitted a new mount and got a g clamp and bent the sides in slightly to stop the movement,its not cause dme any problems
 
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