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clio 182 racing blue turbo build



NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
I have told them not to plug it back in - and I'm using iridium spark plugs,they were covered in black from the time I ran 630cc injectors on my base map so that could of made them abit shitty ! And thanks mate ! It's Deffo good power for that boost assuming it's a gt25!
Get some heat shrink on the vvt plug mate. That way it'll stop any water ingress into the plug/loom itself.
 
  clio 182
Get some heat shrink on the vvt plug mate. That way it'll stop any water ingress into the plug/loom itself.

I rapped the end up with lots of insulation tape but good idea I will do that when it's back - has anyone will turbo builds got any recommendations in terms of common faults and or how they've prevented it
...?
 
  Polo gti
Loose turbo studs and my water return from turbo had a minor weep! Also your right foot seems to get stuck down... Just ignore that :)
 
  clio 182
Loose turbo studs and my water return from turbo had a minor weep! Also your right foot seems to get stuck down... Just ignore that :smile:

Hahaha yeah I'm dreading the cost of fuel because of my right foot lol
I've double nutted the exhaust manifold so I the 2nd nut tightens the stud an 1st nut tightens to Manifold so will have to make sure I check these once a week or something. I had a weep fromn turbo to but think ktec have sorted that
 
  clio 182
Almost a week later, any news?

5th time lucky..... not -_-....

They changed the spark plugs over and put it for mapping again today - now at 1.2 bar it makes 314 bhp with 330 lbft....
But anything over 0.7 bar the turbo bleed valve boost passes and there is flat spots still.... now they're aiming this towards the actuator as from what I know th actuator spring is 0.3 bar (5 psi)spring and they have spaced it out and put a bleed valve to try and cheat it but at 0.7 bar is passes... at 0.7 bar it makes 245bhp but I'm not happy with that... so now I'm trying to order a adjustable actuator... just wondering what spring I should go for... now at 1 bar its 300bhp so I would be happy with that so I'm wonder whether to go for 1 bar spring or go for a 0.8 bar spring and adjust upto 1 bar am I correct in thinking that?

Andy explained megane pistons don't like heat but the air flow etc I'd impressive there isn't much heat even at 314 bhp.... but like I said I am happy with 300 and 270 minimum ... I really hope to solve this soon as I actually really do want it back :(
 
Can you not wire a Mac solenoid valve as an aux out to the ecu and control the boost with that, correctly if I'm wrong but this should allow you to achieve the boost you are hoping for?
 
  Trophy,R26,GSXR1000
Admittedly your actuator is a bit on the weak side, I've just had a look back through your thread to see whether your using a t2 or t3 actuator. It looks like a t3 which should be fine, I personally would put a 7psi one on there and sort your boost control setup out.
Bleed valves are pretty nasty so as Korky says get a proper electronic solenoid on there out will give you much better boost control. That way you can block the vacuum pressure from the actuator and it will be strong enough to combat the pre turbo exhaust back pressure.

On a side note your gonna get pumped for labour charges here, all these little things like preloading the actuator, swapping plugs, the price of the plugs, coolant hose re plumb, intercooler pipes etc.... Have they give you a ball park figure what it's going to cost yet?
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
Admittedly your actuator is a bit on the weak side, I've just had a look back through your thread to see whether your using a t2 or t3 actuator. It looks like a t3 which should be fine, I personally would put a 7psi one on there and sort your boost control setup out.
Bleed valves are pretty nasty so as Korky says get a proper electronic solenoid on there out will give you much better boost control. That way you can block the vacuum pressure from the actuator and it will be strong enough to combat the pre turbo exhaust back pressure.

On a side note your gonna get pumped for labour charges here, all these little things like preloading the actuator, swapping plugs, the price of the plugs, coolant hose re plumb, intercooler pipes etc.... Have they give you a ball park figure what it's going to cost yet?
Good old -31 actuator was always my actuator of choice.
 
  clio 182
Admittedly your actuator is a bit on the weak side, I've just had a look back through your thread to see whether your using a t2 or t3 actuator. It looks like a t3 which should be fine, I personally would put a 7psi one on there and sort your boost control setup out.
Bleed valves are pretty nasty so as Korky says get a proper electronic solenoid on there out will give you much better boost control. That way you can block the vacuum pressure from the actuator and it will be strong enough to combat the pre turbo exhaust back pressure.

On a side note your gonna get pumped for labour charges here, all these little things like preloading the actuator, swapping plugs, the price of the plugs, coolant hose re plumb, intercooler pipes etc.... Have they give you a ball park figure what it's going to cost yet?

I have had a sum before the actuator and plugs problem - but like ivr said to then my old plugs may have been fine !!
They are using a turbo smart bleed valve - which they explained holds boost too? It's something ill speak to them about possibly getting a mac boost solenoid
 
  Trophy,R26,GSXR1000
Hmmm I've just had a look at the turbo smart web page and it looks like a normal bleed valve to me..... And they definitely vent pressure not hold out.

Where is your boost take off for the bleed valve? I used the compressor cover port on mine but I couldn't see one on yours. Are you taking it off the inlet manifold?
 
Hmmm I've just had a look at the turbo smart web page and it looks like a normal bleed valve to me..... And they definitely vent pressure not hold out.

Where is your boost take off for the bleed valve? I used the compressor cover port on mine but I couldn't see one on yours. Are you taking it off the inlet manifold?
I think you're right. May as well run a nice fancy electronic one and that way the ecu can control the boost.
 
  clio 182
Right what there saying is happening is the button valve isn't holding shut and exhaust gas is passing through it. ... I need to get a better actuator with 1 bar spring so it can keep the button valve shut.
This is what they have explained ... now I'm really struggling to find where I csn find a adu stable actuator for the gt2560r ... I've found 1!!! ... which is on ebay from kinguwa but I think that is a cheap type but I really don't know atm ... anyone used this turbo with an adjustable actuator?
 
You don't need an adjustable actuator. You just want a .7bar one, and then use something like a MAC valve or an N75 to control the boost level electronically. Speak to Owen developments, they'll stock the actuator you need
 
  Trophy,R26,GSXR1000
I buy must of my stuff from atp turbo

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...tp&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-028&Category_Code=WGT

I used the 0.5 bar/7 psi one, and didn't have any problems. But as mentioned your actuator sees two pressures, you have the pressure from your vacuum line which fills the actuator with boost pressure, then you have pre turbo exhaust pressure pushing against the wastegate flap which pulls against the actuator. In theory the combined effort could over whelm a weak spring.
The easiest path you can take is too fit an electronic boost controller, this will block all the vacuum pressure to the actuator until the required boost is hit. Also because of the size ratio of the penny waste gate flap to the size of the actuator you will need exhaust pressure that is considerably higher than 5psi to force it open.

The other added benefit is it will give you adjustable boost settings.
 
Twin scroll b*****d lol!

Compgate 40 here!
99404D06-4323-4221-B8E3-660F629BA66E_zps9xwzoaww.jpg
 
  clio 182
I have ordered an adjustable actuator a few days ago should be with me thursday - how good it will be I domt know - it used as an upgrade on nissan 200sx/s and alot of scoobys owners recommended - I ran this through ktec and they will have ago - I have put a 1 bar spring with it too so hopefully this will solve the lot - I found other actuators and the ones you guys suggested... The problem being talking to the company I ordered my turbo from because I rotated the housing etx they couldn't guarantee the universal actuators would fit and they said would only fit gt28s ? This actuator I've ordered is from France and fits my specific turbo... If it's a lump of s**t I chuck it in the bin and look else where.
 


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