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Detailing Chat & Questions Thread

Using the towel damp will cure the problem. I know it sounds strange but a dry drying towel doesn't pick up the water as effectively as a damp towel.
 
What use does a buffer have in the detailing process? Have a cheap one from lidl from a few years ago in the garage, it is battery powered so not very fast. Is there any use for this i.e. buffing and when to buff?
 
Been a while since I popped in this thread. So the car hasn't been cleaned since start of december, record for me that lol. Anyway i'm just wondering will rds remove the 6 months of bonded dirt. It was sealed very well and is still beading in some parts. Obviously I'm not gunna go rubbing a mf over it after but will it get most the dirt off if I say go to a petrol station coat it in a 1l bottle of rds then pressure wash off after a soak?
 
Used white vinegar and nothing else when washing the drying towel and other MFs today - will see if this works, though i'm buying a 'Purple monster' edgeless drying towel swell anyway.

Also ordered a 5L coconut scented container and 1L cola scented container of CarChem shampoo via DW group buy today :).

Also need a few days off to apply the Gtechniq products to the hood!
 
Just looking at ordering some Menz polished but unforunately CYC are out of stock of Po203s. I am planning on buying this elsewhere but on some sites its shown as PF2400, on others PF2500.

Is there a difference between the two?
 
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Hi chaps

Well today my trusty DAS6 decided to give up after about 6 years of use, I'm going to look into fixing it but thought I would use this as an excuse to treat myself to a new machine, so what are people reccomending these days DA wise?

I think I may buy a rotary aswell so I can go between the two, is a silverline good enough (I like the price) or is something like the spin doctor worth the extra money?

Thanks in advance :)
 
Some simple general advice required here chaps...

A dying Nilfisk has driven me back to Karcher and I picked up their K4 compact + 'lance' as well. Is what it does what I should expect or should it dwell longer?

If it should be thicker, is it the lance at fault or cheap ass foam I'm using?

 
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Your lance is not a proper snow foam lance, but the detergent bottle from karcher. Get a proper lance and it should be fine. I'm surprised you managed to get it that thick to start with
 
bigup7 said:
Depends on budget

Flex XC 3401 VRG gets great user reviews over on DW and cheapest here: http://www.autobritedirect.co.uk/in...3401-vrg-positive-drive-orbital-polisher.html

when my das6 dies i shall be buying one of these for sure!

or rotary version, Flex PE 14-2 150 Rotary - http://www.autobritedirect.co.uk/in...ng-kits/flex-pe-14-2-150-rotary-polisher.html
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help :)

I don't have a budget as such (within reason) I'm happy to buy the one that represents the best value to performance.

Whilst the two you linked look good spec wise are they are they really worth two/three times the price as say the spin doctor?
 
Flex is the ultimate DA barring maybe Festool. Personally i'd buy a Das6 pro if you're just a hobbyist. Great machine. I simply love mine these days.

Rotary wise the 3M machine is a really great all rounder, weight wise especially. Or an Ep801 for a beginner.

I think for the hobbyist the DA offers way more versatility. Cleansing, waxing, glazing and polishing.
 
Yellow Dave said:
Your lance is not a proper snow foam lance, but the detergent bottle from karcher. Get a proper lance and it should be fine. I'm surprised you managed to get it that thick to start with
Click to expand...

How do they differ? Does a proper snow-foam lance work differently? I thought it was just about the bottle foaming up and it being drawn out with the passing pressurised water...hence me thinking a better snow-foam might thicken it up some.
 
Thank you for the advice gally

When looking around on DW last night it seemed the das6 pro was well recomended, especially with the £99 group buy on there, I'm a bit out of the loop now with polishers my das6 hasn't put a foot wrong in 6 years! I'm hoping I can repair it and keep it as a spare.
 
If you stick with a DA, for the price I couldn't justify anything more expensive than the pro version.

With rotray, the 3m is considerably nicer to use over the EP801, but it shows up my poor technique more!
 
MarkCup said:
How do they differ? Does a proper snow-foam lance work differently? I thought it was just about the bottle foaming up and it being drawn out with the passing pressurised water...hence me thinking a better snow-foam might thicken it up some.
Click to expand...

Entirely different mate. Get from the carpro site with the discount code, they are one of the cheapest on the net.

You'll notice a proper difference straight away.

Paul.M said:
Thank you for the advice gally

When looking around on DW last night it seemed the das6 pro was well recomended, especially with the £99 group buy on there, I'm a bit out of the loop now with polishers my das6 hasn't put a foot wrong in 6 years! I'm hoping I can repair it and keep it as a spare.
Click to expand...

Indeed mate, even repair and sell on to recoup some cash. 2ND hand DAs hold their money okay.
 
I had a go at removing the birds**t etching I had on my bumper yesterday.

Before I attempted my car I tested it on my wife's car (I'd rather mess up her paint work ;) ). I removed a few scratches easily.

Before
14140958598_1f1032b871_b.png


After
14140957708_1ef9264b0d_b.png


Before
14325862702_011b2b0b98_b.png


After
14326109984_bc4db7dbcb_b.png


Before
14323689255_e55e5068d0_b.png


After
14137044237_22bfc88af1_b.png


Overall I'm really happy with the results. It's the first time I've ever attempted this, so was obviously a little worried.

The wife's Renault was extremely easy in comparison to my BMW.
 
Yellow Dave said:
If you stick with a DA, for the price I couldn't justify anything more expensive than the pro version.

With rotray, the 3m is considerably nicer to use over the EP801, but it shows up my poor technique more!
Click to expand...


It looks like that's that settled then, I'll get the pro ordered, many thanks for your input :)

While I'm here what do people think to the poorboys SSR compounds? I'm a big fan of their stuff and wondered if it was worth trying them.

I'm trying to mix things up a bit and try some new products.
 
Jack-C said:
Menzerna polishes and hex pads is what I use. Works really well and I'd defiantly recommend menz polishes.
Click to expand...

This, although I used Crapro's reflect and fixer with hex pads recently and quite rate that combo too.
 
Which Menz polish / CG pads would you guys say for BMW paint? Not much in the way of swirls and RDS - but lots of holograms present. Used these brands before on Renault paint, but thought BMW paint was harder....

Will be using the DAS Pro.
 
Jack-C said:
Menzerna polishes and hex pads is what I use. Works really well and I'd defiantly recommend menz polishes.
Click to expand...

This is what I use at present, it hasn't let me down yet I just wondered if they were worth trying.

Cheers :)
gally I've just placed an order for a das6 pro and some new pads, I'll leave the rotary for now I think.
 
Just wondering if the usual decon process is enough to strip 3 & a bit month old protection off so I can put down fresh layers. I have iron x, tardis & clay (plus snow foam 2bm etc). Will I need to add daisy or an APC in the mix somewhere? Cheers
 
Does this plan sound okay?

-wash down the car
-tar spot removal
-clay bar
-polish
-layer of wax

Should the wax be a sufficient sealant? Don't need some soonax bsd on top of the wax do I?
 
Connor19 said:
Does this plan sound okay?

-wash down the car
-tar spot removal
-clay bar
-polish
-layer of wax

Should the wax be a sufficient sealant? Don't need some soonax bsd on top of the wax do I?
Click to expand...

Use an iron remover in between tar remover and claying, it'll speed up the process and make your clay last longer.

And wax is sufficient as a last stage protection. Bsd is a quick detailer used to top up the LSP in between applications.
 
Connor, yeah a wax is plenty good enough on it's own. If in a few weeks or months you notice the beading dropping off slightly just add a layer of bsd or you can just use bsd whenever you fancy.

Yes iron out is a good choice. Spray all over the car and wheels. Wait a few minutes for it to turn purple and then rinse it off.
 
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