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Detailing Chat & Questions Thread

Used reload 2014 again today on my gloss black golf, nothing different with application except a higher humidity. Smearing was awful! And I just couldn't stop it regardless of how I changed my application technique so gave up

pulled out megs ultimate QD and it's looking nice and sharp again. There's a lot to be said for simple easy products
 
Used reload 2014 again today on my gloss black golf, nothing different with application except a higher humidity. Smearing was awful! And I just couldn't stop it regardless of how I changed my application technique so gave up

pulled out megs ultimate QD and it's looking nice and sharp again. There's a lot to be said for simple easy products

I'm glad it wasn't just me then!
 
I know, has literally happened over the last 6 months or so, was perfect before. Really is disheartening. :(

It's been repaired/repainted at some point and their process or the paint was inferior.

The only way you will fix that is to get it resprayed.
 
It's been repaired/repainted at some point and their process or the paint was inferior.

The only way you will fix that is to get it resprayed.

That's what I was thinking unfortunately :(

It must of had a respray quite early on in it's life as I've had it nearly 4 years and it was only on 29k when I got it (on 70k now).
 
It's been a while since I last used hydr02 but don't really remember it added much to the finish where reload does make it darker and glossier, a little like ultimate QD

i start to get fed up with products that can be so picky. I've used reload several times now and never had any troubles, as with C2 the majority of applications as trouble free except for that odd occasion where it throws a curve ball
 
It's been repaired/repainted at some point and their process or the paint was inferior.

The only way you will fix that is to get it resprayed.

Yup looks like cracking to me. Used to be common on old cellulose/solvent paint.
 
how long should be left between layers of wax?
how long should be left before covering a wax with a sealant like c2v3/reloaded?
 
First question, depends on the wax. Some need more time to cure or gas. Others being solvent heavy need longer so that the second coat doesn't remove the first. Others are safe to go on within an hour or two.

second question, when the wax starts to show signs of degradation and is loosing its gloss or water behaviour. You could add it straight away but then there seems little point in applying the wax in the first place and might as well leave it out and go straight to C2/Reload
 
Hey all, had a little look but can't seem to find the discount codes for CYC or i4detailing, can anyone help me out?

Cheers.
 
My car was washed 9 days ago and is currently wearing nanolex ultra on all panels apart from the bonnet which is wearing GTechniq EXO V1. Car is covered in typical summer dust.

Just misted the front of the car with a hose and beading wasn't as uniform as that pictured above. Soaked the front end with the hose on jet to remove as much dust and dirt and once it was all rinsed only then is it beading as it should. But unwashed it's never going to bead if there's dirt covering your LSP. I'm averaging 450/500 miles a week

Mate I wouldn't lie to anyone. I do 100-150 a week on average. I've been back from Paris 2 weeks. It was at least 4 weeks before that it was washed.

I could show you the wheels if you're interested! ;)

I told you last year that Hydro seemed to bead through everything!

HydrO2 applied about 2? Months ago, car not washed for 4 weeks minimum. Approx 700 miles in between, car is covered in filth and this is it beading (currently still raining so the beads aren't as settled as they could be)

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Apologies for the odd colours on the last one. Had to apply a dodgy filter as it's dark outside.
 
Here is my passat, Hydro2'd about April/May time and only washed once possibly twice since with zymol car wash stuff.



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Ha, if I had a decent phone and not a cr@p iPhone I'd post a pic of a dirty car beading after some rain. If I were to rinse the car with a hose and show the beading it would be better but I'm assuming you're all suggesting those are proper dirty panels. Bearing in mind my car is wearing a mix of nanolex ultra, gtechniq EXO V1 and the last of the original formula gtechniq C1 which are all pretty impressive beaders I think you're all taking the p!ss out of me:rasp:
 
How much Hydr02 would you use on a whole car application? 100ml bottle then diluted 3:1

Maybe 3-4 apps in a 1ltr bottle. The sprayer is the key. I found the rapid dirt shifter bottle and sprayer the best so far.
 
My RDS sprayer s**t itself.

So did my tough coat bottle and cheap verso sprayer.

Coincidence or am I heavy handed?

Triggers on all those bottles are only designed for use until the product runs out and then chuck them in the bin.

For the sake of a few quid, get on ebay and buy 5 or 6 proper triggers that you can transfer from bottle to bottle.

I use these and considering they get chucked around my unit and I use them for 8 hours a day 6 days a week, they last aaaaaages...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autoglym-...ssories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item46083a8478
 
There's product left in them all! :( I've not used half of my tough coat lol

Swap them into a spare bottle. I keep all my old bottles bar IX really.

I don't think i've ever broken a trigger. Had my tardis one on for 2 years now. Still going.
 
Used ONR last night as needed to wash the car urgently. Ive not used it for about 18 months. Was up against a bit of dust not much more. Came up well! Absolutely butchered the paintwork last year but Now ive got CQUK on it I rekon using ONR once in a while would be fine.
 
Gave the hydro2'd passat a quick lick of smartwax last night. Woke up to this. :-)

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1411768964.148948.webp

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Hmmm too different products. Strata can be standalone. CQUK works best with reload imo.

Strata easier to apply. They definitely offer something different.

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An idea of the beading on a dusty-ish car.
 
Hoping to use my strata coating before the end of the nice ish weather, just means I have to find the time to pull out the rotary to make it look half respectable
 
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